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My Fine Wardrobe

My Fine Wardrobe
The good, the evil, and the nasty side of high-end fashion.

Articles

When love affects a designer - KVA
2006-12-08 00:44:00
L'amour insupportable I wrote about this a few months ago, but I need to write about it again – I’m looking for answer that has not been responded yet. Who broke Kris Van Assche’s heart? Is what I wonder…His jewelry line and his RTW collection both are based on the rough time love can make a nice man like KVA go through. Apparently, some boyfriend/girlfriend made him suffer as nobody has ever done. His body was absorbed, his spirit was taken away and, finally, his unmatchable mind stop working properly, and all he could think of was the grieve that somebody had caused him. The sorrow spread all over his mind and infected his designs. Maybe, his creations are way of advising the rest not to fall in love. They are a desperate way of warning everybody – a way of expression. Love hurts, that’s for sure, and broken hearted Kris is letting you all know how much he suffer, hoping that me and you don’t experience the insufferable pain love can cause. Definetively mor...
More About: Design , Desi , Designer , Sign
Karl's last remaining label
2006-12-07 23:05:00
Mince chicFendi’s S/S womenswear line, is the last remaining proof of Karl’s geniality as a designer – Composing a RTW collection with little, yet highly important, haute couture details, the German born designer sustained Fendi on the fashion pedestal for the second season in a row. By using a palette of black, white, navy, silver and a sparkling violet balance the equation, Lagerfeld elaborated a set of chic wearable garments that expose a sophisticated aesthetic, which compliments the thin and refine silhouette that Fendi has been representing in the last couple of seasons.Less is more; the fashion guru did not have much trouble understanding that truthful phrase. Main taining most of his skirts and pieces above the knee level, Lagerfeld constituted a juvenile line characterized by a stylish simplicity. Reinvention is also visible in Fendi’s latest collection. The high-waisted belts, that had so much success last season, reappear in an asymmetrical shape that makes them lo...
More About: Last , Label , Abel
A bit of deeper analysis
2006-12-07 04:03:00
Quel est frais ?As I was sitting on my uncomfortable old black chair, wondering about what I should I write next, I began to analyze the fashion industry – designers and labels exclusively. I decided to focus solely on those designers that really keep the whole scene “fresh” and moving. It is here, when I started to realize how misused is the word “fresh” in terms of menswear fashion. We, including myself, always described a new menswear line as fresh when we see something a bit different; that includes, cuts, colors, fabrics and, obviously, styles. However, this change is suppose to happen between seasons, it is something that should occur in order to keep the fashion circle spinning. The misconception of the matter is provoked when we let ourselves be fooled by the simple analysis we make after viewing one collection – why? Because if we compare those pieces or styles, or even colors, with the other collections, we find out that, they constitute a pattern that most of ...
More About: Analysis , Deep , Anal
Narciso Rodriguez, a developing designer.
2006-12-06 22:27:00
Narciso, un concepteur de minimalisteNarciso Rodriguez is a man of few words; and his work reflects on the catwalk in no other way. A minimalist at heart, the Cuban-American designer has elaborated a fine tailored set of menswear pieces for this upcoming season (S/S 07). Starting as a small “Privé” project a few seasons back, Narciso’s designs of menswear made it to the runway on the spring-06 fashion show. Although his menswear is yet to be presented at a major menswear fashion show, his line has been developing at a rapid rate and now a variety of RTW pieces can purchased all over the world.Using the same color palette as in his womenswear collection, Rodriguez has composed a line that reflects the same appreciation for volume that he has shown in the past years, and that made him famous in the first place. Jackets are his masterpiece. They show a level of complexity that it is hard to understand at a first glance and reflect an exquisite work behind its elaboration. Narcis...
More About: Design , Desi , Designer , Sign
Awaiting for Paulo - Chloe
2006-12-06 22:16:00
Silhouette parisienneOn January 2007 the renowned Phoebe Philo, whose superb style defined Chloe ’s image, decided to resign and leave the Parisian design house in order to say more time with her family. While the design team headed by Yvan Mispelaere waits for Paul o Melim Anderson (from Marni) to arrive, they focused on keeping the silhouette and style elaborated by Philo. Melim will officially make his debut on the Paris runway on March 2007 during the Fall 2007 season – until then, every bit of Chloe will reflect the work done by the woman who “commanded” the French label for the last years.Gloria Vanderbilt, whose “aristocratic nonchalance” matched perfectly with the bohemian but refined aesthetic of the label, deeply influenced the Spring-Summer 2007 collection. Nevertheless, true signs of her influence are nowhere to be visible. More of an excuse rather than a “path” to follow was the presence of Vanderbilt, whose characteristic ideas were not expose during the ...
More About: Paulo , Waiting , Wait
The man of two faces - Antonio Marras
2006-12-06 06:50:00
Un esprit préoccupéAntonio Marras is a man whose life devoted to fashion. He is quite talented and creative, yet his designs might be “confusing” to the eyes. On one side he is capable of composing an interesting and clean collection; on the other, he elaborates matchy-matchy outfits or, worst, he does not have a “line”/story to follow, so his runway outfits seem from different collections. Marras is a designer who has a difficult time polishing his ideas and, at some point, his obscure thoughts cover the working side of his creative mind. However, it seems that it rarely happens to him with the other lines besides the menswear collection of his own design house. For instance, the f/w line was complex, but amusing; and then, the s/s was a complete fiasco.I sometimes wander what went wrong with Antonio Marras. –I concluded that besides his overworking mind, he has some troubles handling both labels. Because of his commitment with the LVMH group, he tends to leave his own ...
More About: Faces , Face , Toni , The Man
Marky and his eccentricity - Sneakers
2006-12-06 03:51:00
Espadrilles chics pour la rueMarc’s eccentricity and geniality have created a chic street style item like few others. Sneakers , an incredible important and influent piece of an outfit, are what he elaborated. With sneakers with a touch of street style sophistication is a great way of describing them. The details, as ever, are of high relevance for the entire aspect of the sneaker. A strap and a metallic zip compose these, and create the bridge from the runway to the street.Stav.
More About: Cent , City , Tricity , Mark
The posh side of New York
2006-12-06 03:50:00
Le New York er chicNew York has a new photographer; he is more stylish than the “Sartorialist”, more of a face hunter than “Yvan Rodic”, he has it all. With unmatchable raw view of fashion and an amazing conception of the New York lifestyle, he captures those unique moments that only occur in the city that never sleeps, and transmits them with such a splendid sense of taste and freshness that every picture seems to be alive. His name is Justin, and he is the “Boy about town”. Out and about New York City, he tries to capture everything decent of representing that great city in which he lives. High-end boutiques, thrifty vintage stores, posh nightclubs and "B&T" haunts are his playground, and his blog is the way of showing the world what he sees and do, as well as his one of a kind entourage. Diversity might be one of the few words than can describe his blog; Freshness might be another; but no matter which words are used, because his blog and its content assigns a ma...
More About: Posh , Side , New-York
A new label straight from NY - Stuart Curtis
2006-12-06 03:18:00
Occasionnel élégantStuart Curtis is a name we rarely talk or hear in the contemporary fashion world that we "minusculy" form a part. However, it is because of their short career that we do not usually pronounce that rare name in our fashion forward conversations, and not, by any means, because of a lack of talent. Stuart Curtis is a New York label that came out as the result of the love between the renowned designer, Jill Stuart, and her husband, Ron Curtis. This first collection might be considered as an experiment rather than a full menswear line. It is still developing, taking shape, figure and, above all, uniquely.Because of the primary stage in which the development of the collections is placed, the menswear line nowadays is simple. However, I think that this is how the line should be considered, like something not to over the top, chic, and easy to wear. It is composed by a set of splendid pieces that all together conform a nice collection with no strings attached. It is wel...
More About: Label , Stra , Straight
DSM Online finally opens
2006-12-06 03:04:00
Un endroit interditRather disappointing and vague was the opening of the awaited online boutique from the famous English store, Dover Street Market. With just a minuscule selection of what you can purchase in the actual store, they do not carry any other label besides simple t-shirts from the own store and a few sweatshirts by CDG Shirt. What was supposed to change the way we could shop online is just a small place where boredom is what you can only expect.Stav
More About: Open , Online , Final , Pens , Finally
Preppy goes east
2006-12-05 19:43:00
Japanse de très bon goûtClean and lean – That two words can perfectly describe the sophisticated “navish” look that the two great Japanese designers behind United Bamboo, Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham, have gone for. With a wide variety of impeccable colors and faultless cuts, United Bamboo latest collection is deeply interesting and true represantive of chic summertime.The preppy look, which dominates the catwalks this season, is something we rarely see from Japanese designers. Nevertheless, the design duetto have proven that they are no less talented than any other designer is. Long and “loose” cardigans and slim pants are, as any other preppy collection, the essential pieces, but the due plays with another of factor of great importance: shoes. They have elaborated a shoe style menswear runways are no accustomed to see. These are some sort of “boyish” and bigger ballerina shoes - which makes quite the statement on the runway. Minor items or details are the ones that refl...
More About: East , Goes , Preppy , Prep
The little Marc and his jackets.
2006-12-04 05:55:00
Vestes longues chicsQuite the time has passed since the talented Marc Jacobs took over the French design house “Louis Vuitton”. Nevertheless, the NY native designer continues to elaborate interesting, and highly seductive, collections.Marc’s latest collection is certainly marked by the re-appearance of a stylish garment we had not seen on the catwalk for a long time: the long jackets. It is because of these long jackets and the fine taste for which the juvenile outfits transform into a classy and lean costume, that Marc was able to please the critics and to introduce an “innovative” runway presentation.Over the years, Marc Jacobs has turned Louis Vuitton into a “wearable” and “comfortable” high-end label. Designing for the young and from the basis of their taste, has been one of Jacobs most intelligent moves. In a context in which most of the designs are ruled by the short and slim slogan, MJ has been a risk taker and placed the long jackets as the bridge between t...
More About: Jacket , Jackets , Jack , Little
Correcting my mistake
2006-12-04 05:44:00
C'est Paul ! Pas marcI recently wrote about how the long jackets had re-appeared into the scene under the design house Louis Vuitton. Well, as you I can read I said that Marc Jacobs was his creative designer, when in fact he is no longer designer the menswear line for LV. The menswear line is now "commanded" by Paul Helber. Mr. Helber was Marc's "right hand" - his second in command. Jacob's says that he completely trust on Paul, and that he'll do a fine job. In my case, I do not know too much about him and his abilities as a designer. Nevertheless, as you can read in my previous entry, I do like very much his designs and whole re-appearance of the long jacket.Please forgive me for my mistake,Stav
More About: Take , Mist , Mista , Rect
The hated and beloved, John Galliano.
2006-12-03 12:22:00
Oh la la! John nyI've never seen anybody more crazy than my friend Johnny Galliano. He "lives" the runway, the problem is that he often lives it too much. Before starting a new collection, he first goes to the make-up room and dress for the process - he is the living sketch of all his runway shows.Stav.
More About: Love , Hate , Hat , Alli
Reinventing the English super giant - Burberry Prorsum
2006-12-03 05:07:00
Bienveillance anglaiseAfter watching a great interview to the simple, but sophisticated, Christopher bailey, I decided to spread my “devotion” for him and his designs.Burberry Prorsum is all about being classy, but “different”. It’s about being highly fresh and chic, without ever being overwhelming. So, Christopher knew what Burberry Prorsum stand for, and he knew that the only way of doing such a thing was by re-inventing Burberry’s master and beloved piece: the trench coat.Vivid, is the only proper way to describe the amazing colors chosen by Christopher. Colors that turn the trench coats in something very informal, stylish and fun to wear – yet it allows you to go to the office and play the serious role you were told to.These trench coats have certainly been the “key ingredient” in Burberry’s re-invention. They are the product of a mastermind at work. A man who designs for himself and reflects in every garment the joy and love that run through his veins.Stav.
More About: English , Super , Berry , Giant , Vent
Vogue by crazy Pete
2006-12-03 05:05:00
Peter, Le cokeApparently Dior's living ad, Pete Doherty, will appear on Vogue 's front cover. A spokesman from the re-known fashion magazine said that Doherty will be wearing UK designers from head to toes, since they see him as true English man. He also said that the photographs will be taken by a very famous fashion photographer. So far, no names have been said, but we know it's going to be something of the class of Vogue.Stav.
More About: Crazy , Pete
Back in time with Karl
2006-12-03 05:03:00
Avant qu'il ait tourné le blancStav.
More About: Time , With , Back
Karl and his weakness - menswear
2006-12-02 19:57:00
Son talent en questionWhen you hear the name Karl Lagerfeld in the fashion business, you think about a man who has turned the fashion world upside down and that has been one of the most remarkably talented designers in the last few decades. He certainly is a fashion icon and a staple in the industry, but is he able to expose all that talent in menswear designing? Chanel, Fendi, and, his own sportswear line, Karl Lagerfeld, he works for all three; but every one of them represent a different side of the fashion guru. Fendi, might not be take in account – in spite of being the most refined, lean, and classy of all – because the work he does for the label is relatively few, and most of the designs are based on Sylvia’s sketches. When he designs for Chanel, he exposes his tacky/latin/hideous side. Lots of shiny belts and necklaces – a man could hardly ever pull of – and the use of cheap looking fabrics, tag the menswear line. I personally think that he takes the Chanel catwa...
More About: Men , Ness , Menswear , Wear , Mens
The golden boy and his sneakers
2006-12-02 07:12:00
Style by CDGLeaving the matchy-matchy outfit beside, there is something about the outfit I enjoy in particular: the golden sneakers. Obviously, Rei Kawakubo is not the only one pulling this sneaker design, but he surely does it with a lot of “flavor”. It is amazing how shiny gold or silver sneakers have appeared in several high-end collections this previous season and the season to come. Paul Smith, Marc Jacobs, Fendi, Lanvin, Bottega Veneta, and so many other renown labels have include this as the hip item of their line.About the “Gold en Boy” t-shirt; this is one of those items you really need to know how to pull off. I mean, you cannot pull this shirt off you look like a dork and have no sense of humor. You need to know how to act, move, everything in order to show off this tee with a decent sense of style. Believe me,this is not an easy job - If you don’t believe me just try it for yourself and see what happens. Stav
More About: Sneakers , Golden , Golden Boy , The Go
Looky looky what I found - YSL
2006-12-02 00:44:00
Or de safari Yves Saint Laurent cruise 07' accessories line is full of charm, wildness and, above all, gold. By designing cartridge belts and referring to the Arab bazaars, Stefano Pilati has kept the safari vibe that YSL always expressed alive. As I enjoyed viewing the accessories line, one item popped up almost instantly. At a first glance, I thought this is something a hip-hop artist would use – not me -, but as analyze it closely I was amazed by the amount of details it had and by the complexity of each of them. Obviously, I was in the presence of a highly valuable item made for people who live the “Rive Gauche”, not for the ones who pretend to. This is time is non other than this marvelous gold necklace (right) Stav
More About: What , Hat , Look
From Ghana to the Givenchy.
2006-12-01 19:42:00
Saveur AfricaineI have never liked Ozwald Boateng, mainly because I never saw a lack of authenticity in his designs – but time proved that I was wrong. Although his own design house is nothing to be proud of, he has done an amazing work for the Parisian label “Give n chy ”. Many might say that his latest collection is somehow a “healthy” version of Dior Homme, but what we are seeing are the creations of a true designer that accepts the contemporary fashion context and applies his own signature to it.By using black and white as the main colors – and some silver, gray and red to spice it up -, Boateng managed to balance elegance with trendy. Based on a slim silhouette, the African-born designer composed a collection that looks good on the runway as well as on the streets. Yachts, Cote’d Azure, and high-class nights comes into my mind when I see Givenchy garments and they, as a group, conform what I called the “heroin dolce vita”.Stav
More About: Ghana , Ghan
Satin sneakers by Alber Elbaz
2006-12-01 17:43:00
La marche est comme le volIt seems to me that this is another one of those "crazy" tactics, Alber Elba z, has done to shift Lanvin's image into something more young/hipper. I think the satin low-tops became quite popular for the first time after (00'-06'), the British designer, Emma Hope included one of these in her - highly beloved by UK trendsetters - collection. Marc Jacobs also helped to impulse satin sneakers into the high-class streets all over the wold by saying how much he wore and adore his satin Converse sneakers.Sati n sneakers are very easy to wear, very comfortable, and stylish - that's why I consider that is an item you cannot miss of having. What I really like about this low-top is that it has a pointy toe - and that's quite hard to find. That, I think, is what made Emma Hope famous and posh in the old country.Stav.
More About: Sneakers , Satin
Autre raison d'être heureux It has been 18hs (UK)...
2006-12-01 17:30:00
Autre raison d'être heureuxIt has been 18hs (UK) since the DSM online boutique should had opened. The waiting has been extremely long, it begun in September when they announce the opening of an online retailer. DSM online boutique will give a new side of online - shopping. Hard to find labels/designers are meant to appear as well as highly limited editions of Commes des Garcons. Martin Margiela, Lanvin, Dior Homme, Junya Watanabe, are all present at DSM store in London, so let's hope that they are here as well.More information soon to arrive.Stav
More About: Been , Has Been
The simple, but refined, boy from school.
2006-12-01 03:24:00
Un garçon d'écoleMarni is one of those labels that I have always liked, but not loved. It's one of those labels you just take a look to the new collection, maybe try one piece or two to see how they fit, but you never buy. This last collection, Consuelo Castiglioni, has improved in terms of style and authenticity, but he has not reach that "g spot" in which garments themselves ask to be bought. Nevertheless, I give the "newly- talented" designer a chance, and I write a brief review about the most "Marni" outfit of all - you might be thinking: "What? he's done the same yesterday with Jil Sander, but believe me this the most efficient way to do it.With an exquisite boyish appeal, Castiglioni has managed to revive the old British high-school boy we hadn't seen on the runway for quite the time. I must admit that Missoni created a more refined version of this look previously, but this is the first time in a long time that we see it so simple, wearable, and casual. This outfit expos...
More About: School , Simp , Simple , Fine , Refine
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