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1984
2008-02-04 04:59:00
Feeling reflective tonight. This is from a slightly simpler time. The song list from this show, which I snatched at the end of the Minutemen's set, is still stashed away in my box full of old fliers and fanzines.

Notes from a Sunday
2008-02-01 14:30:00
This past Sunday was to have been a night out with friends for dinner in Philly. When crossed signals decreased our group by one, the rest forged ahead. We ran into a road block, though, when we realized that Sunday was the opening night of Philadelphia Restaurant Week (which ends today, by the way). Fixed price specials at spots all over town, along with a promotional media blitz, seemed to have brought the hungry out of the woodwork. Spur of the moment reservations were simply not to be had. Rather than resulting in frustration and frowns, our thwarted plans simply made for a lovely alternative: dinner at home with friends and a few bottles of wine to try. While my hosts seasoned a rack of pork, cleaned and sliced potatoes for the roasting pan, and prepped some broccoli rabe to be sautéed, I uncorked a couple of whites.Savennières “Clos du Papillon,” Domaine du Closel 2001I’m a Savennières lover. There’s a bunch in my cellar and I wish there were room and budget ...
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Domaine Ricard: Growing in the Touraine
2008-01-30 18:05:00
Vincent Ricard farms seventeen hectares of vineyards in the Touraine, located outside the village of Thésée la Romaine, near the banks of the river Cher and not far from Chenonceau, in the heart of central Loire Valley château country.Vincent Ricard, circa 2005 (photo: B. Celce)When first I met Vincent in February of 2004, he was a young man of 27 years, just beginning to get his feet wet yet already taking a strong stance in the Touraine wine scene. Actually, given his relative youth, his experience was fairly extensive. He returned to his family's property in 1998 after a two-year internship with Philippe Alliet in Chinon and a short stage with François Chidaine in Montlouis. It took him only a year from that point, with help from his father, to declare and incorporate Domaine Ricard. Like so many other young vignerons before him, Vincent was the first in his family to make the move to winemaking following many generations of family farming. Prior to 1999, the fruit grow...
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Recent Tastes: Loire Chenin and Bourgogne Rouge
2008-01-29 22:19:00
Vouvray "La Cuvée des Fondreaux," Champalou 2005Toeing the line between sec-tendre and demi-sec, I would enjoy drinking this casually and regularly, particularly if it were $15 rather than $19-20. However, I can easily see, through this wine and others like it, why so many people seem perplexed by Vouvray, as its charms can be overshadowed by the perception and popular misconception of sweetness. Clover honey and pear nectar dominate, followed by relatively low acidity and soft, round texture. Reasonable length is delivered, helped along by the unctuous nature of the wine’s residual sugar, but this lacks the minerality and layered depth of more interesting Vouvray.$19. 13% alcohol. Natural cork closure. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA.Savennières "Clos des Perrieres," Château Soucherie (Pierre-Yves Tijou) 2000Immediately oxidative notes give way to beeswax intensity as this opens in the glass. Pear and quince follow, along with aromas of preserved lemons and verbena...
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Blogs of Note: New York Edition
2008-01-28 20:03:00
There are many, many fine wine and food blogs that I read fairly regularly, but there are a few that keep me coming back for more. They’re blogs that compel me to check in on practically a daily basis. It’s amazing how many of them are based out of New York . Actually, given the intense concentration of great restaurants, cultural diversity and higher than average number of good wine shops in and around Manhattan, maybe it’s not really surprising. Brooklynguy has a beautifully human approach to wine. He’s a good taster and writes thoughtful notes. Though he never dumbs down his topics, he always maintains a sense of humility and freshness that seems to appeal successfully to a wide range of readers. It works for me. His recent piece on the dangers of splurging on wine brought more than a few smiles to my face.I love Riesling. I drink it regularly, mostly from Germany but also Austria and occasionally even from right here in the US. I recommend it vigorously and const...
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Turkey for Keller
2008-01-26 02:56:00
Just a quick post at the end of a crazy day. Klaus Peter Keller stopped by the shop this afternoon. It was lovely to see him but that’s about all there was to it. I bought him a turkey sandwich for lunch, chatted for about 30 seconds, turned around to help a customer and, c’est tout, he was gone – no doubt off to the next stop on his whirlwind tour of the northeast corridor. I would love to have made it up to his tasting in New York tonight, not only for the chance to squeeze in another few words and taste through some of his current releases but also to catch up with a few old friends and connect with some new ones. If any of you made it to the event, I’d love to hear your thoughts.Klaus-Peter (at right) during a visit to the Rheinhessen in 2004.
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WBW 41 Roundup Posted and WBW 42 Announced
2008-01-23 18:35:00
Jack and Joanne have posted the round-up of notes from WBW #41, which focused on the white wines of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. I batted one for three for the day but those who aimed high, as J&J suggested, seemed to fare better. Check out their well done summation, along with their own list of recommended producers, at Fork & Bottle.The 42nd edition of WBW, scheduled for Wednesday, February 13, is being hosted by Andrew Barrow at Spittoon. What’s his assignment? Review an Italian red using seven words. How’s that for practice? I’m not sure the episode will result in as much wine education as usual but it will certainly test everyone’s capacities as a wordsmith.
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Margaret Kuo's Dragon's Lair
2008-01-22 16:00:00
My original title for this posting was “Selosse and Szechuan.” It may sound like a tantalizing if odd fantasy match-up. It very nearly came true during a recent visit to Margaret Kuo’s Dragon’s Lair in Wayne. Jacques Selosse Blanc de Blancs was listed on the “holiday selections” drink list placed on our table. How Selosse Champagne came to be on a wine list in a suburban Chinese restaurant in the archaic wine state of Pennsylvania I don’t know. How it might have paired with Ms. Kuo's food I can only try to imagine. The fact that I took a pass on it still irks me. But as my dining companions were sticking with tea, I settled for a Tsingtao as thoughts of the Selosse that could have been nagged at my inner wine guy throughout lunch.The availability of the Selosse turned out to be a fitting presage of the overall dining experience at Margaret Kuo’s. A typical, casual Chinese-American joint it’s not. The carryout menu gives a practically minded nod or two to ...

Some Recent Tastes
2008-01-19 17:08:00
Just a few bottles I've enjoyed with meals and/or with friends over the last couple of weeks that didn't make their way to full posts but were more than worthy of mention. I really do need to get back to Exploring Burgundy. And I can never get enough Riesling.Mosel Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese #19, Alfred Merkelbach 2005Far from profound but nonetheless well balanced and brimming with green apple, white peach and transparent slatiness. A confectionery hint on the rear palate picks up on the wine’s residual aspects more so than up front. A food friendly style, this would make a lovely companion to seared scallops or lightly cured ham.$20. 9% alcohol. Natural cork closure. Importer: Michael Skurnik (a Terry Theise Selection), Syosset, NY.Petit Chablis, Domaine Vincent Dauvissat 2004Oyster shells and a bit of fishing pier funk on the nose. Very mineral, medium in scale, and just starting to develop a not unattractive oxidative note, followed by plenty of bitter lem...
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Vino Italiano: Wine Book Club Tickler #1
2008-01-19 03:41:00
Allowing for the inevitable procrastination but bearing in mind that we're tackling 500 pages in just a handful of weeks, I thought I'd give y'all a nudge. Many of you who've expressed an interest in the Wine Book Club may have also participated in this week's installment of Wine Blogging Wednesday, which focused on the white wines of Friuli. So I feel inclined to suggest that, by now, we should all have at the very least read through both the "Basics" section and the first regional chapter (conveniently, on Friuli-Venezia Giulia) of Vino Italiano : The Regional Wines of Italy. Any thoughts on the text thus far?
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Desolation Boulevard
2008-01-19 03:32:00
The Sweet. This is some killer glam -- lip synching, alien transvestite costumes and all.
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February at Tria Fermentation School
2008-01-18 14:14:00
The February schedule of classes at Tria Fermentation School has just been announced. Act fast if you’re interested, as the classes tend to sell out in no time flat. There’s a particular focus on wine basics next month. However, there are also a couple of more specialized sessions, including a visit from David Ramey and a course on Grower Champagnes. If you're not familiar with the charm and character of Champagnes from small farmers as opposed to the big houses, you might enjoy my synopsis of a visit at Diebolt-Vallois a few years back.Is there an oversight on the new schedule? Yes, they somehow managed to leave me off the itinerary.... Not to worry, I should be back on the schedule in March, pouring and orating about some real vino from off the beaten track.

My Dogs are Fruitarians
2008-01-17 16:33:00
Well, not really, but they do love most fruit. Lately, you can’t peel a banana or clementine anywhere in the house without them coming running. Which calls into question: what travels faster, sound waves or aroma waves (aka, esters)? If we were blessed with olfactory senses as keen as a dog’s, would the answer be so clear?
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WBW #41: White Wines from Friuli-Venezia Giulia
2008-01-16 22:00:00
When Jack and Joanne at Fork & Bottle announced the topic for this month’s edition of WBW, they put forth a strong recommendation: spend at least $20 per bottle. Go for the best. My initial reaction was, “Ok, I’m on board with that.” It would give me the perfect opportunity to get into some of the wines from currently hot producers like Josko Gravner, Radikon or Edi Kante. I soon realized though that the task of acquiring those wines would not only entail the outlay of some serious greenback but would also force me either to make a trip up to New York or to resort to ordering via the Internet. So I switched gears, opting instead to shop in my own neck of the woods. I picked up a total of three wines: the only two Friuli wines available at one of the better local Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board (PLCB) specialty stores and one Slovenian wine from my own workplace, where we don’t currently carry any wine from Friuli. They all ranged between $10-20. It’s not the fi...
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Crozes-Hermitage and Venison
2008-01-15 14:08:00
A good buddy of mine returned from a trip to western Virginia recently with an entire deer hindquarter, courtesy of his hunting cousin. I wasn’t about to pass up the section he offered me. It was essentially a small "filet," cut from the upper part of the animal’s leg. As good as was the slow-cooked daube that he and his significant other had prepared from the bulk of the leg meat, this portion called out for a quicker, dry cooking technique. After slicing the steak on the bias into four little medallions, I simply hit each piece with salt, pepper and a tiny sprinkle of ground nutmeg. A quick pan sear over medium heat with a bit of olive oil was all it took to reach rare to medium-rare temperature. When thinking of a wine pairing for game, it’s all too natural to jump automatically into the realm of big, burly reds. But with extremely lean meat like venison, soft tannins, supple texture and generous fruit are the order of the day. Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine Combier 2003...

Clandestin and Riesling
2008-01-14 05:02:00
As part and parcel of teaching a private class on the fundamentals of wine and cheese at Tria Fermentation School a few nights back, I had the opportunity to taste a few goodies. One cheese in particular struck me for its individuality and funk: Clandestin, a dual milk cheese, blended from equal parts of cow’s and sheep’s milk, made by Fromagerie Le Detour in Québec. It’s a washed rind, pasteurized cheese, which comes in small discs about the size of a hockey puck. Every wheel that night was a little different, some firm and pliable of pate, others oozing and odoriferous, showing a darker orange tinge to their rind. I enjoyed a slice from one of the latter sort. My first impression was of a bacon-like smokiness, along with a slightly sour lactic tang that reminded me of Saint-Marcellin. There was some grassiness, but in a damp, slightly briny fashion that evoked comparisons from various class members to the aromas and flavors of caviar, mushrooms and shrimp. Curious s...
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And the Winner is…
2008-01-11 16:37:00
After technical glitches delayed the prize drawing by a couple of days, the winners of the items auctioned on behalf of Menu For Hope have now been announced. I know we’ve all been holding our collective breath in anticipation. So without further ado, the winner of my donation – Private Sommelier Services and Wine for a Night – is Lisa Phillips of Wilmington, DE. Congratulations, Lisa! You can reach me via the e-mail address on my profile page with any questions or to begin making arrangements for your wine and food fest. I'm looking forward to it.Thanks to everyone who participated for your support of such a great cause. The entire list of winners is now available for your perusing pleasure at Chez Pim.
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BYOB: Wines at Marigold Kitchen
2008-01-10 19:10:00
Lest ye despair, faithful readers, that I have foregone the pleasures of wine at repast, fear not. I have just been focusing of late on catching up with things on the Philly front. And along the way, I’ve decided that when writing up BYOB restaurants, it would be best not to intertwine wine notes into the restaurant report. After all, wine at BYOs, though hardly an afterthought on my part, is not selected nor purveyed by the establishment. One of the beautiful benefits of the BYOB culture so prevalent in Philadelphia is the opportunity it affords to sample several bottles over the course of a meal. Leftovers can always be carried home or, more magnanimously, shared with the service and kitchen staff or even with neighboring diners. At a licensed restaurant, one might be more likely to scrimp or hoard, as high mark-ups can quickly and quietly change an evening’s outing from comfortable to extravagant. When dining in spots with liquor licenses, I’ll continue to include wine...
More About: Kitchen , Marigold , Wines

44 minutes
2008-01-10 05:26:00
Miles, circa 1970. If you've got the time, it's serious juice.Miles Davis: trumpetGary Bartz: saxophoneDave Holland: bassKeith Jarrett: electric pianoChick Corea: keyboardsJack DeJohnette: drumsAirto Moreira: percussion
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Solomonov's Last Stand at Marigold Kitchen
2008-01-08 22:03:00
Is it taking advantage, in the negative sense, to repeatedly take advantage of a good thing when it’s generously and openly offered? I’m sure an argument can be made for either side. Either way, it’s hard for me to pass up the Sunday prix fixe special – three courses for $30 – at Marigold Kitchen . I’ve done it before and I’ll probably do it again. On this occasion, it was the combination of old friends and a parting chef that drew me there. It was the eve of New Year’s Eve as well as of our friends S&S’s return to Monterey and I was pretty sure they’d dig the place. Additionally, it was the eve of Chef Michael Solomonov’s last night at the head of Marigold’s Kitchen and I was craving an ultimate sampling from his uniquely Israeli inflected menu.Art adorns the wall in the main dining room.Our decision-making was made pleasurable by the arrival of a simple, spoonful-sized amuse bouche of beets, almonds and dill. The interplay between the earthy, slightly ...
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Philly Food Blogger Meet-Up
2008-01-08 00:41:00
Frankly, I’m not sure how many if any Philly food bloggers are regular readers here at McDuff’s Food & Wine Trail. But when Taylor at Mac & Cheese asked that I help spread the word about this event, I could hardly say no. She found it in her good graces to help promote my donation to Menu For Hope and one good turn deserves another, right?So, this Friday evening, Taylor will be hosting the second Philly Food Blogger potluck and meet-up. It’s an opportunity for lots of theoretically diverse yet like-minded, blogosphere dwelling Philadelphians to get together, share some grub and grog, and trade a few war stories. Sound like fun? Check out the full details. Perhaps I’ll see you there.
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A Burger and a Beer: Monk's Cafe
2008-01-06 20:00:00
I can think of hundreds of good reasons to fight the crowds at Monk’s Café. But as the majority of those reasons are the same, the big three will do: burgers, mussels and, no surprise, beer – lots and lots of beer. Is there other food on the menu at Monk’s? Of course, and some of it does rise above the normally insipid yet filling standard of pub grub. There’s good, rustic country pâté and a pretty respectable braised rabbit dish (Lapin à la Gueuze). When all is said and done though, the strengths at Monk’s are undeniably the standard bearers for Belgian style cafés across America: moules frites, offered with a variety of sauces and ingredients, and burgers, also with choices of an atypical and savory range of toppings. What sets the burgers apart at Monk’s is not their decadence. There’s no foie gras stuffing, they’re not as rich in fat or as extravagantly portioned as at Rouge for instance; in fact, they’re unlikely ever to take the honors for the “b...
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A Few Updates
2008-01-05 05:29:00
Based on the amount of feedback humming through the local blogosphere via comments and new visitors as well as through posts and announcements on sites further afield, it looks as though the Wine Book Club is off to a promising start. I only hope that everyone who’s excited now will hang in there, make it through Vino Italiano and participate at the end of February.Speaking of excitement generated by new announcements, I mentioned in a recent posting that the reservation books at Talula’s Table would soon open for dates in the second half of 2008. Michael Klein followed up with a full length feature in last Sunday’s Philadelphia Inquirer. When the shop and calendar opened at Talula’s on Wednesday morning, it took only two hours for the entire year to be booked. If you made it, good on ya! If not, save your energy; you’ll need to wait another six months for a shot at a spot in 2009. In the meanwhile, it’s well worth a day trip out to the shop to enjoy a casual lunch,...
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Announcing the Wine Book Club: First Edition
2008-01-03 16:27:00
Wine blogging is already changing the way that many people around the world research, read and learn about all things wine related. Why not up the ante then by creating a community that helps to strengthen that trend by reading together, blogging together and, in the process, learning together? That’s just what I think Dr. Debs had in mind when she proposed the idea of a Wine Book Club to a modestly sized group of equally zealous wine bloggers. Based roughly on the model of Wine Blogging Wednesday (WBW), the Wine Book Club (WBC) will be an on-line forum (or meme, if you prefer) where wine and food bloggers, as well as any other interested participants, can – and hopefully will – come together every other month to read, discuss and critique a selected wine book. As Deb was kind enough to take care of the bulk of the nitty-gritty, behind the scenes work needed to get the ball rolling, I figured the least I could do was to step up and host our first meeting. So, without furt...
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2007: The Blogging Year in Review
2008-01-02 04:34:00
I’ve never been particularly given to list making, not when it comes to top tens, to-dos or even shopping needs. If there’s a time to break that pattern, New Year ’s would seem to be it. So without further ado, here’s a list of some of the wines, meals and moments that stood out most clearly for me as highlights or benchmarks in 2007.My first post: After being almost entirely oblivious to the world of blogging, I started this venture in March of this year, basically as a “why not” response to a suggestion from one of my co-workers; little did I expect the path that laid in wait. It’s rekindled a love of writing that I’d neglected for far too many years.Italian red: Barolo “Cerretta Piani,” Luigi Baudana 1996. This was my Xmas Eve dinner wine, chosen to accompany simple ravioli with a sage butter sauce. The wine was way overmatched to the dish but I just wanted to drink something nice and, in the end, it turned out to be one of those clear moments where the wi...
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