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Articles: 1, 2, 3

A gaggle of googlys
2008-06-09 11:37:00
It would seem that occasionally the bowler of life feels that it is necessary to send an unpredictable shower of googlys down one's crease just to keep you on your toes (for those of you who do not understand a word of that think of a bowler as a pitcher and a googly as a curveball). Whilst unpleasant, it certainly makes everything a little more interesting. frustrating, but interesting.My own googly (such a great word to say, two delicious syllables the second of which is an unexpected sound that races out of the mouth after the unctuous first half of the word, almost onomatopoeic. Googly.) arrived full pelt at me last week when my poor iMac finally died after spluttering, coughing and wheezing its way through the last couple of months. It was one of those things that skirted onto the 'to-do' list but was quickly replaced by the unceasing list of domestic tasks that consistently usurped it in importance. Fix computer. No, mow lawn. Fix computer. No, mend the boiler so we can sho...

Stockholm is where the heart is
2008-06-04 12:16:00
There are no ugly people in Sweden. Nobody is overweight and no-one is badly dressed. Swedes seem to exude an understated grace and style with an effortless and genteel humility not present in cities that are equally modish. Rome immediately springs to mind, which somehow manages to offset its intrinsic panache with a self-congratulatory air. In the formal side of the city, the men all look as if they have been dressed by Ralph Lauren with narrow cut suits and perfectly folded pocket squares. Clean cuts and jutting jaw lines make way for quirky plastic sunglasses and leggings in Södermalm, the beating Boho heart of the city just south of the old town. I imagine it is what the inside of Agyness Deyn?s head looks like, it really is that cool. In between, there is a beautiful clean city with an abnormally low crime rate, few homeless (official figures estimate that there are about two but I managed to count at least six) and a bracing freshness from the clean sea on which the Stockholm ...
More About: Heart , The Heart

Rocket Powered Pesto
2008-06-02 11:40:00
There are two minor problems facing those who grow their own. The first is the issue that presents itself when faced with a glut. A failure to plan correctly can often leave the hapless gardener with a plethora of peas or a surfeit of strawberries which must then be eaten with every meal resulting in palate fatigue or preserved in some way. This is where pickling, freezing, jamming, smoking, salting and the like come in to their own and allow us to enjoy the fruits (or vegetables, for that matter) of our labour during the months when they are out of season. The second problem that we are discovering is how to look after ones plants whilst you are away for any length of time. After the many hours of care lavished upon them during their short existence, the prospect of returning from holiday to find a parched vegetable garden with the dried and rotting remains of what once were lush, green plants is somewhat depressing. I know that there are intricate irrigation systems involving time...
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A pheasant experience. Part three - Pie from the sky
2008-05-29 12:00:00
After three gloriously culinary days in the Swedish capital I?m feeling invigorated and inspired with a burning desire to record each and every single detail, but before I launch into the most recent gastro-recollections there is the small matter of the newly plucked pheasant to deal with. Where once we had a full-feathered bird, we now had something that resembled a recognisable foodstuff ? a young and plump example of a bird that I?ve eaten occasionally but never truly appreciated until my hands on experience. The feathers were gone, the guts and head removed and now all that remained was to find some way to do justice to this magnificent creature. I turned to the champion off all things simple, tasty and British, a man who refuses to even grant a nod of recognition to the health police: Fergus Henderson. His book, ?Nose to Tail Eating? is a veritable manifesto of wholesome, and ever-so-slightly adventurous cuisine. It isn?t food that turns the stomach in the same vein as a globe...
More About: Experience , Part

Swede Sensations
2008-05-24 21:58:00
Firstly, thanks for all your great comments and messages. It?s great to know that people are reading and it seems that the pheasant story struck a chord with you, which I?m really pleased about. Secondly, I?m off to my motherland for a few days to spend some quality time in Stockholm hopefully imbibing vast quantities of schnapps and herring so won?t be posting for a few days. I shall return shortly with tales of Nordic cuisine, culture, coffee and cakes. And the final part of the Pheasant trilogy, of course.A bietntôt.www.justcookit.blogspot.com

A pheasant experience. Part two - Plucking hell
2008-05-23 14:19:00
I knew that there was a vast, epic, sprawling world of difference between a nicely pre-packaged pheasant neatly presented in a butcher?s window and the actual real-life bird but I did not appreciate the actual feathered physical reality of it until very recently. After contemplating the task I was about to undertake I steadied myself with a large glass of wine before reaching for my instruction manual ? an excellent book originally released in the early 1960?s by an unwittingly hilarious fellow called W.M.W. Fowler. ?Countryman?s Cooking? is not just a superb cookbook but also an excellent read that harks back to a gentler age when the raging inferno of feminism was but a gentle glimmer and it was possible to write witticisms such as ?having fortified your pasty maker with a couple of stiff gins, let her loose with some flour, lard, a bowl and a rolling pin? without fear of scathing repercussions. Aside from such occasional, accidental and innocently archaic interludes, the book als...
More About: Experience , Hell , Part

A pheasant experience. Part one - A bird in the hand
2008-05-21 12:46:00
Any ethnography will contain a substantial section on ?rites of passage?. The study of anthropology places much attention on these transitionary periods because they appear to be something of a universal, common, in some respect, to all human societies. They mark the transition from one phase of life into another, often involving some sort of test to prove that one is worthy of inclusion. A rite of passage combines three distinct phases: separation, when the subject is ?removed? either physically or metaphorically, from their previous existence, a ?liminal? period where they are effectively in limbo ? neither one thing or another, often incorporating some sort of ?test?, and an ?inclusion? where they are welcomed back from their exile and begin enjoying the trappings that come with their new status. If all this sounds a little exotic and foreign think again. Baptisms, weddings, Bar Mitzvahs, drinking society initiations, 21st birthdays, graduation ? these all contain the three basic...
More About: Experience , Part , Bird , Hand

Caking it
2008-05-19 15:02:00
Ah, the humble banana. One of the original superfoods, this snack in a jacket was providing us with a nutritional boost before those young pretenders like açai and goji berry were even saplings. Technically a herb, the average banana contains hefty doses of vitamins B6 and C as well as a hit of potassium and a decent amount of dietary fibre. In addition they are packed full of complex carbohydrates and score low on the glycaemic index (bonus if you happen to be following Anthony Worrall Thompson?s diet of choice, although I?m not sure if that is a ringing endorsement considering his ample girth and his apparent willingness to lend his name to more products than St. Michael) and 72 million tons of these yellow wonders are consumed every year. In short they are a supremely tasty, healthy and convenient foodstuff, the ultimate fast food. With this in mind I set about attempting to neutralise the incredible positive effects of the banana by mashing it up and mixing it with quantities ...

A Tasty Badger
2008-05-16 19:27:00
I?ve recently spent some time working at a food magazine based close to Portobello Road in west London (every single time I think, say or even write the words ?Portobello Road? I end up with a tenacious little ear worm of the song of the same name from the innuendo ridden Disney musical ?Bedknobs and Broomsticks?. For those of you who haven?t seen the movie the reference will no doubt be lost, those of you who have seen it will now be humming the song relentlessly for the next couple of hours and for that I apologise). Given my proximity to Notting Hill and the fact that I was working on a food title, it is hardly surprising that I enjoyed a few gastronomic related experiences during my time there: As one who has an almost unhealthy passion for bookshops and all things food related, ?Books for Cooks? on Blenheim Crescent is something of a personal Mecca and I did well to limit my purchases to a solitary tome. The market rivals many that I?ve seen on the continent, even on quiet days...

Tip Top Tapas
2008-05-16 14:58:00
Even the best-laid plans can sometimes be scuppered by external circumstances. As a result of the appearance of a substantial amount of cloud and rain displacing the unseasonably delightful weather we have had recently, yesterday?s summer themed meal of fresh rocket, Jersey potatoes and lamb failed to materialise and we were left with a dinner shaped hole where it had previously been residing in the consciousness. As an alternative I decided to attempt an exercise in improvisation by using up the various items in the fridge and cupboards that were nearing the end of their consumable existence. Better they end up as sustenance rather than compost. An aging chorizo sausage provided ample inspiration for a mini selection of hearty tapas, perfect for conjuring up images and flavours reminiscent of more Mediterranean climes while outside the rain dripped down the window in energetic streaks and the trees shook at the whim of the wind. The piquant chorizo was cut into little gem sized c...

Getting green fingered
2008-05-15 14:08:00
I?ve never been the most agriculturally minded individual. Prior to moving to the countryside, despite my best intentions to plant a veggie patch last year, the closest I had got to growing my own was planting some cress seeds in an empty egg shell at primary school. Granted, the egg shell did have a face painted on it and the cress was cut into a Mohican style hair cut after it had sprouted but as sustenance it wasn?t a great success. It was certainly time to rectify this. One of the aspects of moving that excited us most was the prospect of becoming more self-sufficient and we wasted little time in transforming large areas of the garden into functioning vegetable patches. I had no idea how much hard work this involved and for four days afterwards my back, neck and shoulders ached with a deep-set pain and a layer of dirt resolutely refused to shift from underneath my fingernails. But it was a great feeling, made even sweeter by the knowledge that just a few short months ago I wa...
More About: Green

Loafing about
2008-05-14 18:00:00
I did it, I finally did it. I baked bread. Proper tasty, delicious bread with a light and fluffy interior and an incredible crust. I managed to exorcise my demons and banish the bread gremlins to the proverbial dustbin (along with the many corpses of failed loaves past) so from now on we?ll be able to have the freshest bread whenever we want. Which is a good job really because it seems as if I won?t be able to afford to buy it for much longer considering the price of bread appears to be rising faster than the one I baked this morning. So to every failed loaf, every sunken effort, every chewy, dense and inedible example, each loaf that dripped with vindictive scorn as it steadfastly refused to behave in the manner in which it should ? you?re toast. Metaphorically, at least.

Making a right (and left) pig's ear of it
2008-05-09 13:34:00
There is a truly wonderful cookbook called ?Nose to Tail Eating? by a chap called Fergus Henderson who is the chef/owner of the famed St. John restaurant in London. His philosophy runs as follows ?Nose to tail eating means it would be disingenuous to the animal not to make the most of the whole beast; there is a set of delights, textural and flavoursome, which lie beyond the fillet? (Henderson, F. 1999). And he is right. Within the pages of this delightful monochrome tome are such gastronomic adventures as Duck?s Neck Terrine, Pot Roast Brisket and Pheasant and Pig?s Trotter Pie with Suet Crust all of which will grace our table at some point. By the time I finally bought it I felt as if I?d already read it several times over due to the number of times I?d flicked through it in bookshops and so when I learned that there was a follow up on the way I was overjoyed, and with chapter titles as gloriously simple and intriguing as ?Pig?s Head? how could a budding foodie adventurer fail to ...
More About: Left

A sting in the tale
2008-05-07 17:23:00
A while back I went an entire year without having my hair cut. It wasn?t a concerted effort to release the inner hippy or have an instant ?Neanderthal man? costume should I be invited to any fancy dress parties, more a result of circumstances ? those circumstances being a product of having more important things to spend my money on, like rent, bills and food. It crept up on me and went through a rather wild phase that required a significant amount of hair stuff and even an alice band to prevent it from springing out into a large bouffant before it could finally be tamed into pony tail and eventually loose curls that hung down rather than out. I was content with my general look but it was a comment from my grandmother that finally convinced me that I should probably pay a visit to the hairdresser: ?ooh, you look just like that Hugh Fearnley chap?, she said on seeing me for the first time in a couple of months. I glanced into the mirror that adorns her lounge wall and could see that i...
More About: Sting , Tale

Time for a change...
2008-04-17 14:16:00
Discovering new foodstuffs is a constant source of delight for me. I remember the first time I tasted Manchego cheese, the salty, almost fudge like quality of it balanced by a tiny square of quince jelly. My introduction to the soft, fluffy cumulo nimbus like qualities of sweetbreads, sweetly caramelised on the outside proved to be equally enlightening and I remember the slight frisson of trepidation the first time I sucked a brackish oyster past my lips and straight down my throat, the hefty shake of Tabasco sauce catching the inside of my lips and the sharpness of the fresh lemon juice heightening the whole experience with a raw, but expected, sourness. Incidentally, I still think that this is the best way to eat oysters, a supreme combination that offers a surge of heat, the salty hit of the oyster itself and the finishing notes of sharp citrus which leaves the eater with a delicious mixture of flavours and sensations rolling around the palate and lips. There is certainly an exci...
More About: Change , Time

Normal service will be resumed forthwith
2008-04-15 10:18:00
Having just moved house, things have been a shade on the manic side of late. Now that we've managed to wrestle our cottage into the 21st century and have become connected to the global-hyper-mega-interweb, the usual array of disparate musings will re-appear shortly with renewed vigour. There are tales of nettles, pigs' ears, milk jam and vegetable patches to follow anon. Until then, a bientot. x
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Holy smoke, duck!
2008-03-17 20:01:00
I really enjoy cooking with duck. Granted it is not the most versatile of meats, certainly not as pliable or easy to match with flavours as chicken, but what it lacks in versatility it makes up for in sheer tasty indulgence. I think it is something to do with the richness of the meat, the deep purple colour and the thick layering of cream coloured fat which serves to add a mouth-watering taste as well as a delicious moisture. It isn?t a cheap meat and I doubt it is a luxury I will be able to afford for much longer but before I go crashing head first into the real world next week I felt it right to have a final dalliance with decadence. I usually serve duck fillets with the skin on, crisped up in a hot pan and most of the fat rendered out of it, with a rich sauce made from reduced stock and wine or port and sweetened with whatever berries or fruits are suitable: blackberries, red currants and cherries have all featured with duck on more than one occasion. I?ve also made Thai duck cur...
More About: Smoke , Holy , Duck , Holy Smoke

I'm a little short (part two)
2008-03-13 14:59:00
Shortbread should be easy to make. It was the first foodstuff I was ever taught how to create in my very first home economics lesson at school and is a very basic combination of butter, flour and sugar with optional assorted flavourings. After some web-based research I found so many conflicting recipes that I just decided to try and use my intuition and spend a couple of days trying different ratios and different ingredients. I chose to ignore all recipes I?d seen and leave out the sugar as I wanted a savoury biscuit and opted for a pasta flour to keep it as light as possible. So, shortbread v. 1.0 consisted of little more than flour, butter, salt and finely chopped rosemary. It mixed together nicely and formed a reasonably workable dough sausage which I left in the freezer to harden up. And then forgot about it. It emerged an hour later (when I say ?it emerged?, I don?t mean it managed to extricate itself from the freezer by itself, obviously I removed it) looking and feeling like ...
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I'm a little short (part one)
2008-03-13 14:56:00
There are certain times in life when one does not wish to be wracked with indecision: moments when you?d rather be able to make a choice and stick with it with the tenacity of, well, of someone who has absolute faith in their base convictions. I imagine that waiting at the end of the aisle is not a place to have an internal dialogue with the two opposing forces in one?s head, nor would it be wise to have second thoughts when halfway across a rapidly flowing, dangerous-creature filled river thus rendering you unable to head to either bank, instead flailing like a spider caught in the whirlpool of an emptying bath. As a general rule I?d class myself ?not bad? at making decisions although I do tend to be a bit erratic, if it were a subject at school I think my report would say something along the lines of ?not bad at making decisions, tends to be a bit erratic. C+?.For example, I have been known to agonise for far too long over what to drink in a pub and the inevitable appearance of a ...
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Hardcore Prawn
2008-03-10 16:28:00
There are some sentences that are nothing short of delightful to say. ?Coffee and croissants? are but three simple words that serve to evoke sublime thoughts, tastes, smells and sensations and awake an appetite at any time of the day. ?The prickly hedgehog burst the fluffy bubble? is positively delicious as it rolls round the mouth and lips in its wonderfully onomatopoeic way. ?Mika has decided to give up his career as a musician and instead decided to join a free-diving team? would be a tremendous sentence were it true, alas it is not. At least not yet. ?I?ve never had food poisoning? is also a vastly underappreciated little snippet of syntax and one, that until this weekend, I would have been able to say with absolute confidence in its truth. I suppose it is one of those sentences that would rarely surface as it is not a particularly common subject for polite conversation: ?Did you see Celebrity Wife Swap last night? Aren?t house prices ridiculous round here? I?ve never had food p...
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Med in England
2008-02-28 18:55:00
Considering the number of risottos (risotti? Risottums?) I?ve made and the variations thereof, I was slightly surprised by the realisation that I?d never made a paella. Not surprised in the conventional sense, as it can be rather difficult to be taken back by something of one?s own creation, rather I was surprised in the manner by which you may react to finding a long forgotten boiled sweet in the pocket of a jacket you haven?t worn since last winter. It wasn?t through any conscious decision, I?d not written paella off my culinary repertoire in the same sense that I shall never, ever cook a nut roast or use Quorn (or any meat substitute manufactured in a laboratory, for that matter) but it was just one of those dishes that hadn?t been on my radar for so long that it remained forgotten and neglected like a copy of Descartes? Mediations on the Beckhams? bookshelf. But my memory was triggered by the discovery of a bag of Spanish paella rice waiting patiently in the back of the cupboard...
More About: England

Pan(ettone) Perdu
2008-02-25 13:58:00
W. Somerset Maugham once quipped that to eat well in England, you should have breakfast three times a day. I am assuming that he was referring to the Full English rather than a bowl of muesli, half a grapefruit and a glass of broccoli and garlic juice or whatever is de rigeur at the moment. I am also assuming that he was quipping in an era when obesity, coronary heart disease, type two diabetes and other such ailments were viewed as aspirational conditions rather than with the scorn lavished upon them today. Or perhaps they just didn?t exist. Either way, I don?t think that eating two fried eggs, bacon, sausages, mushrooms, tomato, black pudding, baked beans, hash browns and fried bread three times a day is the most balanced diet, nor am I willing to attempt this in a very British version of ?Supersize Me?. I just don?t think eating all my meals at the Little Chef will have the same impact as Morgan Spurlock managed with his Herculean McDonalds effort, although the prospect of a doc...

Sand-which?
2008-02-22 16:12:00
Making the perfect sandwich is an activity fraught with difficulty. Sure, it is easy enough to place a couple of slices of ham between two thin pieces of plastic bread or cut open a roll and spread with a liberal layer of mayonnaise before adding a hastily cut tomato and some tasteless cheddar but this is mere sustenance rather than the gastronomic perfection that a sandwich can offer. And I?m sure you know me well enough by now to know that a basic butty would not be enough to satisfy. The beauty of a sandwich lies in its inherent simplicity but that simplicity can also be its downfall: if each element is not perfect then the whole thing disappoints and serves to stave off hunger rather than create a perfect food moment. And before I go any further I?d like to point out that it really isn?t about cost, I?m not snobby about these things and there are times when a stack of watery wafer thin ham and three Kraft cheese singles wedged between two slices of Warbutons bread can hit the s...
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Warning: Smoking Thrills
2008-02-15 19:17:00
For the first time in about a year I smoked in my kitchen last night. I didn?t even bother to go outside. I just stood in my kitchen, smoked away and thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience filling the house with the rich, woody aroma of delicious hot smoked salmon. You didn?t seriously think I was talking about cigarettes did you? Come on. I?d got two pieces of salmon fillet from the fishmonger a couple of days before and they were reaching the end of their natural life, any longer and they would have quickly transformed from the delicious to the inedible stinking the fridge to high heaven in the process. Salmon is one of the easiest fishes to cook. It is robust and large enough to give the chef enough leeway either side unlike something delicate like sole which can overcook in a matter of nanoseconds. It is hearty with a meaty enough texture to tempt even the most ardent carnivore and also has a whole host of related health benefits. The sort of smoked salmon we are all familiar w...
More About: Smoking , Warning , Thrills

It's Spelt S-O-D-A-B-R-E-A-D
2008-02-07 19:18:00
I?d like to say that my bread making efforts have been something of a failure. I?d like to say that but it would be akin to calling the Peloponnesian War a minor fracas or saying that standing on a upturned plug ?stings a little bit?. It is an ongoing fiasco that has been well documented upon these pages and I hope has caused some minor ripples of amusement in the face of my own ineptitude. I?ve tried and failed with sourdough so many times that it has become rather a millstone around my neck. Give me a bit of something that used to be alive and I can cope more than adequately. However, faced with something that didn?t used to have a face yet has managed to establish its own sentience independently of any discernable source and it throws me a bit. Flour? Check. Water? Check. I wonder what will happen if we mix these two together and leave it for a while. Good god ? it has managed to take on a life of its own and is now rapidly expanding towards my shocked looking face. Suffice to sa...

Slight Return
2008-01-31 17:10:00
Where does one begin after such a lengthy period of sustained silence? My last post was written on June 3rd 2007, well over six months ago and that is a long time. I know that in the grand scheme of things it isn?t a long time ? the lower Palaeolithic lasted approximately two million years, the Mesozoic Era spanned a whopping 186 million years. Even the gestation period of the hippopotamus is eight months so there may well be baby hippos conceived before I penned my last entry that are yet to enter the world ? however, since I was just beginning to get into a stride, get the hang of this writing lark and start to compose some seriously regular culinary musings, six months is a long time. I knew it would happen. There was simply no way I was ever going to find the motivation (or time, or desire for that matter) to work full time for ?the man? and continue to live the life of an out of work food writer. The creative muscle just wouldn?t have time to exercise and by June the muscle was...
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These Feet Were Made for Eating - Part Two
2007-06-03 22:18:00
The meat that had been carefully removed from amidst the bone, fat, gristle and skin was finely shredded and then rolled into a tight sausage in a small sheet of cling film to be put into the fridge for the night to set solid (once it has set, anything made with trotter meat will stay in solid form due to the high quantities of gelatine present in the foot). For the final cooking procedure all that remained was to cut the ?sausage? into even sized discs and coat them in a couple of layers of beaten egg and crushed cornflakes (a great alternative to breadcrumbs as they give a lovely crunch and a delicious golden colour when fried) before frying them in hot oil for a couple of minutes each side. Proportionally, the size of the finished items in comparison to the original trotters was pathetic (as you can see from the photographs) and the effort taken to transform them from enormous hairy thumb-like appendage to delicate haute cuisine was substantial but damn, it was worth it. To compl...
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These Feet Were Made for Eating - Part One
2007-06-03 22:01:00
Warning ? The following piece is not recommended for those of a squeamish disposition. Or vegetarians. I have mentioned previously that true culinary wizardry lies not in being able to turn top quality fine ingredients into top quality fine food, it lies in being able to transform the mundane into the sublime, in being able to take the scraps, the cuts or ingredients that no-one usually bothers with and turning them into dishes that would make even the most hard-nosed of Michelin inspectors jump for joy. I am constantly trying new methods and ingredients and as a result have begun to get more and more experimental in the kitchen. Perhaps it is like an addiction and I must feed my habit by moving onto harder and harder substances, if this is the case lord knows where I will end up ? in some filthy squat somewhere in East London desperately trying to score my next fix of pickled donkey?s pancreas or dried mealworm powder probably. Or probably not. Anyway, I digress. It was whilst wa...
More About: Feet , Made , Part , Eating , These

Searching for a cure
2007-06-03 17:01:00
After the success of last weeks? smoking efforts (Marcus Waring is clearly a reader of these musings as he cooked trout in exactly the same way on Great British Menu coincidentally a couple of days after I?d posted it. Something fishy going on there ? pun entirely intended) I was in the mood for experimentation and culinary adventure. Ceviché (pronounced suh-vee-chay) is a traditional South American style of ?cooking? fish and other seafood without actually using any heat, using instead acidity to denature the protein molecules that make up the flesh of the fish thus having the same effect as the application of heat would (I think I just made this bit up, cobbling together rudimentary GCSE science knowledge and a healthy does of what is commonly known as bullshit, however if you say anything with enough conviction, people will believe you ? I learnt that trick at Cambridge). It is primarily a Chilean speciality but infinite versions of it pop up all over the continent, like a form o...
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Do you mind if I smoke?
2007-05-15 23:52:00
It?s all very well roasting or baking or pan frying (or boiling or grilling or poaching for that matter) food but I?m all for a bit of experimentation as well. Before too long I plan to make a brawn (it involves an entire pig?s head, ears and all, there is a recipe for it in the tremendous book ?Nose to Tail Eating? by Fergus Henderson) and I?ve been considering the potential of curing my own salamis and hams for a while. Before you know it I?ll be charcutering (is that a word?) like a pro. Unfortunately pig?s heads and entire ham legs are a little tricky to get hold of even with a few days notice and one should learn to walk before one tries to run and dive head first into advanced food preserving, so I thought I?d start off with smoking. Smoking, along with air-drying, is one of the oldest methods of preserving food ? archaeological evidence of smoked foods has been uncovered dating all the way back to the upper Palaeolithic ? and I love the unique flavour it lends to all foods. P...
More About: Smoke , Mind