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Male-Mode
Musings on menswear and more..read-men's style, fashion, grooming etc.

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Damien does Denim while Tom turns south of Tokyo
2008-04-02 22:42:00
It appears art and fashion have embraced yet again, this time 'round it's denim and doodles, Warhol doodles to be precise. That may have seemed somewhat derisive but I assure you I'm anything but, regarding the Warhol Factory X Levis X Damien Hirst collaboration. Having viewed Youtube footage of the runway show I am officially, excited. Men's Style reports on a pop-up store.I do hope we'll get some fetching poultry-underwear hybrid!Derisive? Just a tad...While Hirst douses 501s in buckets of luminous paint Tom Ford instigates his latest campaign, more a sartorial assault, this time on the Japanese market. His first target is Osaka where he has just opened a fully-furnished, 1,300 square-foot shop within the Hankyu Men's Store.?They gave us the very best position in the store, moving other brands for us. We could not say no. And the business has been phenomenal for Tom Ford since the January opening,? Mr. Ford declared, no doubt with a knowing smirk, as he plotted his next tail...
More About: Tokyo , Denim , South

Acne Studio - hidden door panels and oversized knobs.
2008-03-29 11:23:00
The spanking new Acne Studio in NYC's Soho has been generating considerable chat over the past week and rightly so, I feel, when I pore over these delectable images so representative of the Swedish brand's Scandinavian quiet cool. The store or, if you would rather 'studio', now occupies the place where another vein of quiet cool, albeit of a more dark and stern nature, once resided, that of Plokhov's Cloak.I include Q+A with creative director Jonny Johannsson courtesy of Refinery29...How long has this store been in the works?Forever, I think. It's more or less one of the first or second things that you think of [as a designer]. When you imagined the "perfect New York store," what came to mind?For me personally, it has a lot to do with having a really great relationship with Opening Ceremony, that's why it's here in this space right now. And also, I've always been drawn to this area of New York. When I used to come here when I was young, I'd always go to Canal Street to pi...
More About: Acne Jeans , Hidden , Door

VMAN.com and FORD Model Search 2008
2008-03-27 09:12:00
For all the budding Seans, Ryans and Evandros out there...More info HERE.Images from Vman
More About: Ford , Search , Model , 2008

Trustfund Triumvirate
2008-03-24 21:58:00
Ok, so the topic at hand here may not be the most menswear-relevant but having spent several hours during the past few days enthralled in the earlier episodes of Gossip Girl , I just have to. The exceedingly popular series, which centres on the antics and troubles of NYC Upper East Side's school-going elite is quite pleasurable to watch, especially considering its wealth(no pun intended) of sartorial excellence and characters epitomising innate NY class. Never have the male denomination of a TV series been so obsessed with dress and, I must admit, I love it.Simply smart with a subtle, romantic flourish on the tie.That NY casual cool demonstrated immaculately.Even their school attire is covetable.Or is it just their covetable genes that do the trick? What do you reckon?Images from Gossip Girl Insider

VMAN, Vogue Hommes and a refreshed L'Uomo Vogue
2008-03-19 21:49:00
Just a brief update on the latest publications in an attempt to keep you all informed...and I call myself a blogger...Vogue Hommes International - Josh Beech by Hedi SlimaneAn entire issue devoted to all things erotique, don't say you're not drooling to get your hands on a copy, phwoar!VMAN - Ashton Kutcher by Mario TestinoDisappointing, disappointing oh and painfully average.-UDATE-L'Uomo Vogue March - Louis Garrel by Bruce WeberRedemption. It's a beautiful thing, finally...Images from TFS

CFDA Nominees 2008
2008-03-13 10:01:00
Thom BrowneIt's that time of year again, yes the nominations for the 2008 CFDA Awards have been released and I, for one, am pleased with the array in the main Menswear category.Two of the top T(h)oms in the industry, Tom Ford and Thom Browne are both named, accompanied by one Michael Bastian, he of the fondness for fusion of NY casual class, British quirk and Tokyo kitsch. I find it quite difficult to choose a definitive deserver but instinctively approach Thom Browne. Such 'circus-freak' theatricality, if at times contrived, is to be commended when achieved in menswear. Anyway, Ralph Lauren won the award twice at least and that was hardly deserving...The nominees for the somewhat less prestigious award - as is often the case - showcase oodles more talent. Patrik Ervell, Tim Hamilton and Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders have all been nominated for the Swarovski Award for Menswear. My pick? Again, it's an immensely tough call but the crisp yet meltingly attractive hue of gol...

Denim Dispatches
2008-03-07 22:38:00
Someone's fetching Cheap Monday'sThese are good days for denim. High-street giant H&M has just bought out Fabric Scandinavien which owns Cheap Monday - the much-adored casual label - and plans to expand the brand and generally, broaden its horizons. Sounds sincere but considering the crux of business is profit, I'm not so sure. Still, more Cheap Monday can only be good. Note that the big-time retailer will not alter Cheap Monday's designs and doesn't plan to sell the wares in H&M stores.Acne Gentleman's Jeans Additionally, one of my favourite magazine editors has just tried his hand at denim design. Yes, the delightfully direct, butt-loving Gert Jonkers of Fantastic Man and BUTT was consulted for the production of Acne's latest line - Gentleman's Jeans. Fantastic Man's art director, Jop van Bennekom, also chipped in and the results, I can say, at least look great, I'm ignorant regarding the fit unfortunately. Try the creased jeans for yourself at Colette and Acne....
More About: Denim , Dispatches

Fujiwanna
2008-03-01 13:50:00
Apologies for the serious lack of postage these past few days, mock exams have proved themselves tiresome and taxing, however-and thankfully, finite.As often happens with myself and brand names, I was vaguely familiar with guilianoFujiwara but could not recall any trademarks or remember any looks from recent seasons, or any seasons whatsoever for that matter. My attention has been drawn to the Japanese-headed, Milan-based menswear brand thanks to a savvy Male-Mode reader who was kind enough to alert me.A few brief moments browsing the lush site leads to speedy satiation of my daily requirement of flash-fash sites. The enveloping black, crisp white and shots of scarlet red remind me I need to make browsing of designers' sites more regular.And the clothes. Well, the FW 0809 collection boasts structurally austere pieces in deep blacks amongst those in brightest citrus orange. Accessories are definitely variegated and contrast beautifully; squatty ties, elongated slim belts and a compa...

Oscars 08
2008-02-25 19:51:00
I know, you needn't remind me I've previously sworn myself against the many evils of today's celebrity culture, and that I've railed against the large aggregate of celebrity-focused style-deficient blogs out there. I maintain whatever view I've expressed but I deem the Oscars an exception, don't you?Although, having said that, from what I've seen it was a decidedly average affair with the menswear actually topping the womenswear. That rather speaks volumes wouldn't you agree? Anyway, the highlights for me...or if you would prefer something a little more apt and buckets more cheesy, the nominees are...Firstly, let's all agree she's a bit of a state. As for Dan the Man, I felt the very subtle piping worked wonders. He seems to have effectively grasped the basic concept of menswear, less is most definitely more and minute alterations and embellishments render the biggest impact.Probably my pick for the win. One doesn't happen upon 'buttoned-up' too often, any such instance...

Miu Miu No More
2008-02-23 20:59:00
It truly was good while it lasted, albeit haphazardly good. Yes, Ms. Miuccia Prada wasn't - perhaps - perpetually on form apropos of her menswear outturn but it was, I've always maintained, a welcome event during menswear showings in Milan. Alas, no more, Prada Group have eschewed the branch due to its low profitability. It does pain me while I pore over images of Miu Miu womenswear and enjoy that signature insouciant kookiness, that some of the ingenuity was lost in translation from womens to mens. However, I for one will sadly miss it. With that, I present a few personal highlights.Sadly missed or good riddance?Images from Men's Style

QED's Story of a Mistake
2008-02-18 20:24:00
Just couldn't help sharing this wonderful short by the incomprehensibly talented folk of QED. Their menswear - I assume - features in all its Berlin er[was kann ich sagen? it's an obsession] geometric glory. Be sure to view and revel in the enjoyable randomness and far-fetched philosophy of it all.Video from QED's Iqons pageStumble It!
More About: Story

MAN FW 0809
2008-02-16 00:27:00
No pix as of yet, unfortunately, but footage of the collections has been released. It really does remain to be seen what's on offer here but from a quick glance at below-par quality Youtube vids I have managed to decipher big, black and bounteous from James Long, somewhat Berliner, draped and loose pieces from Hans Christian Madsen and looks from Topman Design proving the the retailer isn't all about flash-in-the-pan trends.James LongHans Christian MadsenTopman DesignMore info here.Stumble It!
More About: Kesh

Comme des Garçons in Speedo waters.
2008-02-13 09:43:00
I'm in no way a sports fanatic or, well, even an enthusiast, but swimming and antics involving water do interest me to a greater extent so news of Rei Kawakubo's latest collaboration with Speedo was welcome.Why the hell do I care since I'm not a professional swimmer? - I hear you ask, simply because the CdG FS LZR Racer looks incredible in all its superhero, second-skin-tight glory. And it's not just a looker, there's a decent concept too. Kawakubo - who has collaborated for the past three years - has said she drew inspiration from the Japanese character Kokuro - by the calligrapher Inoue Yu-ichi - which roughly translates as 'heart, mind and spirit' or in these circumstances, "I'm in it to win".The suit which possesses the uncanny ability to reduce muscle vibration and fatigue will be manufactured in three silhouettes for each gender, including a full-body suit with no arms, a knee-length full-body suit and a full-body suit with an open back.Images from WWD and Speedo
More About: Waters , Comme des Garcons

Gofficism
2008-02-09 10:19:00
Just last week I made my monthly excursion to the cinema, our cinema complete with becomingly sticky floor, outrageously overpriced popcorn and tatty seats, it was, as I had left it, only worse now. But I didn't mind particularly as the film started promptly once I had bum on seat, as it were.And what a film it was. "Sweeney Todd " is definitely old hat for a lot of you considering varying release dates but I just couldn't ignore the opportunity to plug Burton's masterful eye and the marvellous produce of his insatiable hunger for visual beauty. I'm not donning film critic boots here but am more concerned with the Gothic costume we all know and love which was so astoundingly enrapturing in Burton's interpretation of the hit musical. Although I fear Costume Designer Colleen Atwood's somewhat too stage-y creations are approaching over-exposure in Burton's continuous string of dark and quirk-fest offerings I could appreciate those featured in Todd.Having considered the below, who...

Gofficism
2008-02-09 10:19:00
Just last week I made my monthly excursion to the cinema, our cinema complete with becomingly sticky floor, outrageously overpriced popcorn and tatty seats, it was, as I had left it, only worse now. But I didn't mind particularly as the film started promptly once I had bum on seat, as it were.And what a film it was. "Sweeney Todd" is definitely old hat for a lot of you considering varying release dates but I just couldn't ignore the opportunity to plug Burton's masterful eye and the marvellous produce of his insatiable hunger for visual beauty. I'm not donning film critic boots here but am more concerned with the Gothic costume we all know and love which was so astoundingly enrapturing in Burton's interpretation of the hit musical. Although I fear Costume Designer Colleen Atwood's somewhat too stage-y creations are approaching over-exposure in Burton's continuous string of dark and quirk-fest offerings I could appreciate those featured in Todd.Having considered the below, who...

Oomph from Ervell
2008-02-06 23:06:00
There is a common misconception a great many people possess, that the preferred aesthetic of many an NY-showing designer is nondescript, puritan-plain neutrality. And who am I to deem them wrong? Fashion is after all, subjective. I really don't think its disputable, though, that this acute reservedness was almost rife in Patrik Ervell's FW 0809 collection.Save for one detail, one glorious, luxuriant detail - gold. Yes, gold was what saved - for me - Patrik Ervell's collection, well not saved it from condemnation as such, more saved it from serving as an embodiment of that notion that menswear dictates conservativeness and abstention. It was, instead, a symbol of visual splendour.A note on the title. If "oomph" is good enough for Tim Blanks, "oomph" is sufficient for meImages from Men's Style

F.B.A. 2008
2008-02-03 10:37:00
FBA 2008 - Voting has Begun!Another year, more quality fashion/style blogging. Don't let the lack of testosterone on the nominees list get you down...Get voting!Much luck to everyone!

Grandad Dunhill and Jocular Jones
2008-02-02 11:38:00
It's most likely old news to all of you by now but Kim Jones , renowned London-based menswear designer and pioneer of the electric 80s club scene, is set to blow the dust off quintessentially British label - Dunhill. It was reported just last week [yes, I know, am painfully, frustratingly slow with the latest!] that Jones has assumed the role of creative director of the brand and has also - unfortunately - left his own-name brand to veg for a while until he identifies a time fit for rejuvenating it.Speaking of rejuvenation, there's really no better choice than Jones for instigating some of that at Dunhill. His penchant for the mixing of muted neons and greys, streetwise baggy tees and soccer-style image is sure to ruffle a few Dunhill-loyal feathers. Famous for its rather classic menswear, which some even denounce as 'fuddy-duddy', and distinguished leather goods, Dunhill is unquestionably a British house in every sense of the word. A brief scanning of their site informs one of; ...
More About: Grandad

The Modern Male
2008-01-31 08:47:00
And now, to illustrate how a man should never take himself and his style too seriously...Inspired by beauteous model Daul Kim and her recent 'if i was a man...' post on her blog, I've compiled this questionnaire. It features questions based on her decisions and observations which - I think - are quite representative of many incarnations of the modern male.Do you dress like this?Do you read either of the superb publications - Paradis and Fantastic Man?Do you read Virginia Woolf's short stories?Are you a playboy?Do you have strikingly great skin and alluringly clean hair?Do you smell like Prada?Have you grown a moustache à la Leung in 2046?Do you own at least one Thom Browne suit?And finally - preferred occupation/method of financing the expense of the aforementioned?1. Live with Parents?2. Go gay for pay?3. Work hard and achieve own wealth?4. Date old rich women?5. Credit card fraud?Should the darling Ms. Daul somehow slip upon this, let her know that I took some creative initiat...
More About: Modern , Male

Wordsmiths
2008-01-28 23:04:00
I've been an avid fan of Fashion156 for longer than I recall and over the years it's simply grown from strength to strength, exhibiting the best of British design talent and the cream of the International crop too. Extensive and informative editorial dealing with a broad range of topics from beauty to apparel makes for much great reading, note also, one Susie Bubble does the news in her unique and thoroughly engaging manner. So first, off, props to all at Fashion156 for an exciting and refreshing online venture!Anywhat, the inspiration for this post was their latest issue - the Word Issue - which features models in smart and serious wear as Fashion156 address the geek-chic aesthetic. I must admit I find the labelling of a particular style as 'geeky', 'nerdy' 'swot-esque' or any other adjective pertaining to smarts, as just that bit lazy and I vow to avoid doing so at all costs. Don't you feel it's somewhat stereotypical or simplistic, to write off all cardigans and thick-r...

More MAN
2008-01-25 21:15:00
The philanthropic bodies, Fashion East and Topman , will once again collaborate to produce yet another MAN show this coming February. Judging by previous extraordinary events bursting with the ideas and innovations of London's underground elite, this year is set to knock sox off. Guaranteed. Three new bright, young additions have been made to the line-up.One of the latest additions to the line-up is the brainchild of über zany, strikingly streetwise, Super Super phenomenon - Kesh . She's an undisputed fox, DJs, designs, frequently flaunts her editorial skills and has been photographed for *insert appropriate so-cool-it-hurts mag title* a very many times. Some keshirts offer some klues as to what we can anticipate...Despite possessing a name reminiscent of a certain fairy-tale fanatic I hold in high regard, Hans Christian Madsen, also adores the "rebel-youth" culture of the 50s, the Brandos and Deans etc. and designs with these figures in mind. A Dazed Digital interview is available ...

More MAN
2008-01-25 21:15:00
The philanthropic bodies, Fashion East and Topman , will once again collaborate to produce yet another MAN show this coming February. Judging by previous extraordinary events bursting with the ideas and innovations of London's underground elite, this year is set to knock sox off. Guaranteed. Three new bright, young additions have been made to the line-up.One of the latest additions to the line-up is the brainchild of über zany, strikingly streetwise, Super Super phenomenon - Kesh. She's an undisputed fox, DJs, designs, frequently flaunts her editorial skills and has been photographed for *insert appropriate so-cool-it-hurts mag title* a very many times. Some keshirts offer some klues as to what we can anticipate...Despite possessing a name reminiscent of a certain fairy-tale fanatic I hold in high regard, Hans Christian Madsen, also adores the "rebel-youth" culture of the 50s, the Brandos and Deans etc. and designs with these figures in mind. A Dazed Digital interview is available ...

'If you are safe about the choices you make, you don't grow...'
2008-01-23 23:11:00
This blog is far from celebrity-bashing, nor is it celebrity-idolizing, in truth I abhor the present zeitgeist regarding prominence in society but I felt it necessary to commemorate the immensely talented actor and entirely inspirational man - Heath Ledger . In the post title you'll find some words uttered, when or where I can't quite recall, by the man himself and in my warped mind I somehow managed to relate this quote to style and image matters which seems somewhat shallow, yet, I simply felt compelled.In so many instances Heath has portrayed characters that seem to abide by this code, in Brokeback Mountain an incomprehensibly difficult relationship flourishes, albeit not forever, against all known odds as a result of shunning the safe path. Even in the renowned 10 Things I Hate About You, Heath's playing a greasy rebel-without-a-cause type reflects the motto, he doesn't give a shit.If you are overtly cautious about how another perceives you. If you don't take risks and mix ...
More About: Make , Safe , Choices , Grow

Ploier Pleasures in Paris
2008-01-19 20:29:00
It's true, I raved fanatically and, must admit, waxed lyrical about Burberry but it seems Paris held much more wonder up its sleek sleeve. Namely, Ute Ploier's FW 0809 inexpressibly swoon- and drool-worthy collection.I recall a certain reluctance to open the thread on TFS when I spotted the name, unfamiliar with her work and mistaking the label for another that I'm not so keen on I almost disregarded it entirely. You might have guessed by now that having opened the thread I'm unapologetically deliriously happy, as - cheesey as it sounds - it was in a way, an enriching and uplifting experience, a reminder that menswear is far from a lost cause and by no measure doomed to the depths of gender-bending hell. I can now rest assured we males reside in good hands.The intricacies of anatomy and bodily functions brought so beauteously to life by Marios Schwab some time ago has made yet another appearance. Ploier contorted a mass of synthetically bright white fabric into a sizable rib-cag...

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