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Wednesday Yum-Yum Digest
2007-11-28 23:30:00
A few food-related articles and posts that have caught our eye over the last few days… 1. Kevin Gould’s “Eat like a local…” Budapest feature in last Saturday’s Guardian. Mmmm, coffee and cake, and lots of it. 2. In the Telegraph, Gill Charlton’s guide to Naples, with its mention of ultracheap, ultradelicious pizzeria Vesi. 3. David Lebovitz’s France archive. 4. Nordljus’s riveting images of Istanbul, many of which are of things to eat.
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High Culture/Low Budget: Olivia Giovetti Rocks It
2007-11-27 17:04:00
Olivia Giovetti, who, among other things, once wrote a fab set of Wandering Cheapo posts on Prague for this very blog, recently launched a brilliant blog of her own. High Culture on a Low Budget is a breathlessly plugged-in guide to finding high cultural treats on the cheap. The first slate of posts covers Riga, London, Paris, Prague, Vienna, Geneva, Budapest, and Bolzano—a lovely mix of tried-and-true and less well known destinations. There’s opera. There are museums. There’s a Christkindlmarkt. There are tips for getting into world-class performances for far less than you’ll spend on your budget hotel. In short, High Culture on a Low Budget is ideal for culture vultures who don’t have deep pockets. And in addition to being outstandingly useable, it’s erudite and fresh. We can’t wait to see what she’ll come up with next…
More About: Olivia , Rocks

London: “Mind the Gap” voice silenced over spoofs
2007-11-26 18:05:00
Emma Clarke, the ubiquitous voice behind “Mind the Gap” and “Stand clear of the closing doors” in London ’s Underground, has been fired by the Tube, according to news reports published in London today. The sacking of Emma took place because the voice-over professional published a number of quite funny faux-announcements on her personal website (which is now so popular that it has become almost impossible to access). These spoof recordings poke fun at perverts, Americans, and the Tube itself. Some examples: “We would like to remind our American tourist friends that you are almost certainly talking too loudly.” “Would the passenger in the red shirt pretending to read the paper but who is actually staring at that woman’s chest please stop. You are not fooling anyone, you filthy pervert.” The 36-year old Clarke also admits to never riding the Tube anymore, because it’s “dreadful.” In the words of the Times of London, it looks...
More About: Voice , Spoofs , The G

Thanksgiving in France: Rail strike ends
2007-11-26 17:38:00
Alas, we’ve returned from our patriotic turkey festivity to find, with great relief and thanks, that France ’s rail strike has ended. The strike that derailed commutes and clogged highways ended on Friday, after nine days of severely limited national, regional, and local public transportation services. The Herald Tribune reported Friday that only 2 percent of workers were still out, and that trains were running close to or on schedule. High level (read: presidential) negotiations helped get the workers back on board, but negotiations between the unions and rail official continue today (Monday). Thus, dear reader, ends our daily rail strike update. Indeed, another reason for giving thanks.
More About: Thanksgiving , Rail , Ends , Strike

European microstates: Sealand for sale!
2007-11-21 14:20:00
Europe has its fair share of those little tiddler states – you know the ones, territories like San Marino, Monaco and Liechtenstein which, if you cut a decent pace, you can walk across in a day. Vatican City is the tiniest of the bunch. You can stride from one end of this theocratic state to the other in the time it takes to mumble two Hail Marys. In addition to those well known microstates, there are places like the Faroes, the Åland Islands and the Bailiwick of Guernsey which function to all intents and purposes as independent states while retaining a nominal political link to another entity. Then there are the places that aspire towards independence, but whose secessionist aspirations have not yet been internationally recognised: Abkhazia, Transdniestr and – certainly one to watch in the weeks ahead – Kosovo. Oddest of the bunch is surely Sealand , an upstart self-styled principality on an abandoned sea fort in the North Sea. No-one really takes Sealand seriously, except fo...
More About: For Sale , European , Sale , Rope

France: Rail strike hits seventh day
2007-11-20 21:35:00
The transportation workers’ strike that has halted much of Franc e ’s local, regional, and national rail transportation entered its seventh day on Tuesday, as protesters and their supporters took to the streets. Today’s developments: On Tuesday, about half of the countries TGV trains were running. Eurostar service to London was normal. The International Herald Tribune reports that Paris Metro and bus service gradually improved during the day, with two Metro lines shut down entirely and less than half of buses running. For Wednesday, Paris transportation officials expect one-fourth of the Paris Metro lines to be in operation. One-half of buses are expected to run, and they expect wide disruptions on regional and suburban lines. According to France24, one-third of France’s civil servants were on strike on Tuesday. The growing list of strikers includes rail workers, teachers (elementary and high school), opera employees, newspaper printers, and postal worker...
More About: Rail , Hits , Strike

Kindle Krazy: Groovy e-book reader for travelers or just a pricey gadget?
2007-11-20 16:54:00
Jeff Bezos, CEO of Amazon.com, was in town yesterday and it wasn’t just to swing by EuroCheapo’s HQ for a cup of joe (where’s the love Jeff? Next time.) Rather, he officially launched an e-book reader called “Kindle” that lets users download bestselling books for $9.99 and is apparently easier to use and better designed than other electronic readers currently on the market. It took Amazon three years to develop the reader, which is either a sign of intense dedication or a little too much YouTubin’ distraction, but we’ll give them three cheers for bringing this product to market. After all, this little reader could be a blessing to travelers, allowing us to travel with all of our favorite books with minimal effort. Kindle Pros: It doesn’t need to hook up to your computer; downloading a book takes about a minute and occurs wirelessly via Sprint without an additional charge (the fee is part of the $9.99); the screen has schnazzy techol...
More About: Reader , Gadget , Book , E-book , Groovy

Priceline, Continental, Delta shake it up
2007-11-19 22:40:00
Just when you think you know how to book the cheapest flight to Europe from the States, the airlines and agency websites shake things up. Again. Budget-savvy author Tim Leffel notes on his budget travel blog a number of recent changes in booking policies and fees. These include: Effective December 1, Conti nental is dropping its 500 bonus mile award for booking flights through Continental.com for passengers booking within the United States. Similarly, Delta announced it, too was dropping mileage bonuses.  So why book directly through the airlines’ websites? Cheaper fares than the agency sites, who tack on an extra booking fee, right? Well… Priceline  announced this month that they were dropping their booking fees when you book a flight through their direct-purchase service (not through their “name your own price” service). Might this force other agencies, such as Orbitz and Expedia, to drop their five-spot charges? Stay tuned!

Monday: Paris strike continues; a run on public bikes
2007-11-19 16:37:00
It’s Monday , and the transit strike that has crippled Paris ’ public transportation continues, affecting residents and tourists alike. Today’s strike update: On Monday, all Metro lines but one are running. Bloomberg news reports that riders are typically waiting between five minutes and forty-five minutes between trains. There is no train service between Paris and either Orly or Charles de Gaulle airports. Bus service is running to Orly, but not to CDG. The much-publicized public bike program launched this summer, Velib, offers commuters an alternative to hitchhiking or walking. However, according to our cycling source in Paris, the bikes are so popular that many would-be riders are showing up to docking stations only to find them empty. One-third of the high-speed TGV trains running into and out of Paris are running today, while rail service in the rest of the country has been drastically reduced. Traffic jams were the worst today since the strike started, apparen...
More About: Public , Bikes , Strike

Friday Strike Update: France, Germany still striking
2007-11-16 17:59:00
It’s a sunny Friday here in NYC, but in France  and Germany , commuter moods are clouded with continued rail strikes. Here’s the latest: France The rail strike entered its third day on Friday. The BBC reports a slight increase in the number of trains and metros running across the country, and a significant decrease in the number of workers participating in the strike. Only 200 of 700 TGV trains across the country are running. In Paris, the Metro is running with delays, although two lines are not running at all. One third of the city’s buses are not running. Rail workers voted to continue the strike over the weekend, although support seems to be thinning. Germany On Friday, the second day of passenger rail strikes has affected millions of commuters’ journeys. 3,000 workers have walked out since the strike began. The BBC reports that suburban and inter-city transportation is hit the hardest, with most intra-city transportation systems running smoothly. The ...
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Strike Update: France and Germany Subway & Rail
2007-11-15 22:22:00
It seems like half the world is “striking out” the last few days. Broadway stagehands and TV comedy writers have walked out, and now French and German rail employees are taking to the picket lines. Here’s the latest on the European rail strikes: France Rail Strike Day Two of strikes, affecting national trains, regional trains, and metro. Strikes expected to continue into tomorrow (Friday). The French government announced Thursday that the rail unions are willing to negotiate.  150 national TGV trains (out of 700) ran on Thursday, which is better than the 90 that ran Wednesday. 6 out of 16 Paris Metro lines were out of service on Thursday. (There seems to be a little light at the end of the metro tunnel.) German Rail Strike On Thursday, passenger train drivers joined a larger rail strike begun Wednesday for higher wages and better working conditions in Germany . Deutsche Bahn (German National Railways) calls the strike the biggest in its history. “Heavi...
More About: Update , Subway

London: The Eurostar Arrives at St. Pancras
2007-11-15 20:49:00
We’re psyched that the new and improved St. Pancras train station opened this week in London . The depot, rebuilt and improved with a $1.7 billion budget, boasts more than just slick rails. Indeed, St. Pancras Station boasts the longest champagne bar in Europe, its own underground shopping mall and—most importantly—the fastest Eurostar journey to date from London to Paris. (Trains also leave the station for Brussels and Lille.) We’re not, however, completely sold on the station’s PR: A daily farmer’s market in the downstairs arcade promises to be “Where the best of the British meets the flavours of the continent.” (Well, they’ve had their plates full.) We recommend taking a virtual tour of the station. On this side of the Atlantic, more “rail good” news as the U.S. House of Representatives last week approved $1.4 billion to keep Amtrak chugging along and improve track conditions. We’re glad to know our government, too, is finally taking...

EU to Low-Cost Airlines: Clean Web Sites Up
2007-11-14 17:56:00
Yesterday, the European Union’s Consumer Protection Commissioner Meglena Kuneva condemned “misleading advertising and unfair practices” pursued by European sites selling airline tickets. The Consumer Protection Commission investigated 446 Web sites and found that a whopping 226 did not respect EU consumer protection law, on grounds of unfair pricing, hidden charges, and/or improperly translated conditions and terms. Consumers should be empowered to know from the get-go how low a fare actually is. The last second taxes and charges smoke-and-mirrors-effect does no one any favors; low-cost carriers may not realize it now, but this investigation will actually strengthen them in the long run, by giving consumers a more realistic sense of what they’ll actually be paying for their flights. Best of all, the Commission’s statement has teeth. Airlines and other vendors have four months to clean things up. If sites do not manage to do so, they’ll be fined or...
More About: Web Sites , Sites , Cost , Clean

Tues List: Flybe, Georgia, Moscow
2007-11-13 17:54:00
It’s a Tuesday, the sun is shining, and there’s a snap in our step. What’s on our minds? Thanks for asking. 1. Flybe is apparently looking for another acquisition. It looks as if the purchase of BA Connect has only whetted the airline’s desire to grow. 2. We’re Georgia mad, again, thanks to Kate Weinberg’s Georgia travelogue in the FT this past weekend. Horseback riding, check. Mountainous terrain, check. Involved toasts at mealtimes, check. 3. And in the New York Times, also this past weekend, Sophia Kishkovsky teases us with a suggestive description of Moscow ’s enormous All-Russian Exhibition Center, an olio of Soviet triumphalism and fairground amusements.
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Flash: Another 500,000 Free Ryanair Flights
2007-11-08 17:19:00
Today, Ryanair announced the “sale” of half a million free flights. Good for travel on Mondays through Thursdays in December and January (with a “limited availability” quasi-blackout period from December 18 through January 8), these fares are on sale through midnight tomorrow. These flights are utterly and completely gratis—no taxes and no fees. It’s a serious giveaway. And while it’s not available on all routes, some available routes include London Stansted-Glasgow, Girona-Basel, Frankfurt Hahn-Forli. At the very least, this sale is worth checking out. Move quickly.
More About: Flash , Flights , Free

London: Country Walks!
2007-11-08 16:59:00
It’s not often that we feel compelled to essentially offer advertising copy for another publication, but we’ve fallen in love with Time Out’s Country Walks Volume 1, a compendium of 53 walks (one for each week of the year plus one reserve) within a short distance of London . The country walks listed in the book were honed over several years by an informal group of London area walking enthusiasts. The book, originally edited by Nicholas Albery and first published in 1997, is quite palpably a labor of love. Suggestions for lunch and tea are made for each walk. Length of walks, transportation information, and a toughness scale for each walk give prospective a sense of what to expect. We admire the volume’s sheer enthusiasm and attention to detail—sections on lyme disease, the suggestion that walkers invest in “a compass with a swivelling rim marked in degrees,” maps, and its careful descriptions of walks and potential hazards (”exclamation mar...

SkyEurope vs. Ryanair: October Stats
2007-11-07 17:17:00
Behold, the return of our SkyEurope/Ryanair statistical face-off. In October 2007, Ryanair carried 21 percent more passengers than they did in October 2006, and managed a modest increase in load factor—the number of seats filled on planes flying throughout the month—of 2 percent (from 83 percent to 85 percent) also against October 2006 numbers. SkyEurope, by way of contrast, enjoyed an impressive 34.4 percent hike in passenger numbers in October 2007 against October 2006. Despite this, the airline’s load factor in October 2007 was .5 percent (75.3 percent to 74.8 percent) in comparison with October 2006 stats. Against this backdrop, Ryanair launches eight new routes from Shannon today, and seven from Bristol—with another five more inaugurations to follow by the end of the week. SkyEurope, still consolidating after its base contraction, has announced plans to sell two Boeing 737s. Thanks to AirScoop for alerting us to the sale.
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hidden europe: 2008 European Rail Schedule Highlights
2007-11-06 18:16:00
Even the most seasoned Europe an traveller can be caught unawares by rail schedules changes. Most European rail companies introduce major timetable changes over the second weekend in December, and this year there are some big alterations in the offing. There is no more civilised way of making a big hop across Europe than on a night train, and the new schedules see a whole raft of new night train services. Take Amsterdam for example. The Dutch city has always featured on Europe’s night train schedules, but for 2008 Amsterdam secures new daily services to Copenhagen, Dresden, Milan, Minsk, Moscow, Prague, and Warsaw. For the first time for many years Switzerland and Bavaria will benefit from direct overnight trains to Poland and points east, with new direct night sleeper services from Basel SBB and Munich to Warsaw and Moscow. Fixed fares apply for travel on most European night train routes, often with little advantage for railpass holders. A one-way journey in a shared sleeper c...
More About: Schedule , Highlights , Rail

What Happened to Fly For Beans?
2007-11-02 18:50:00
A few months ago, we were waiting with bated breath for launch announcements from Fly For Beans , a new Cardiff-based low-cost carrier. It’s not that we’re impatient, exactly. It’s more that we’re wondering if the airline will ever actually lift off. FFB has the pre-launch marketing all sewn up. They’ve got a perky site full of typical low-cost carrier bravado, in a reddish hue not particularly easy on the eye, either—a sure sign that they’ve done their market research. In a “bean blog” entry written by Director of Flight Operations Brian Bibb last week, we learned that the airline’s route map will include one destination that Mr. Bibb himself, a pilot of two decades’ standing, has never flown into. Where might said destination be? We’ve come across some completely unverifiable rumors suggesting that one or another airport in Bulgaria will appear on the FFB route map. We can only dream.

EasyJet and Those GB Airways Routes
2007-11-02 18:03:00
The other day we speculated about easyJet’s acquisition of GB Airways , hoping aloud that the former would take over all of the latter’s routes. We’ll admit a vested interest. We’re planning to fly from London to Cyprus next summer, and we want to do it cheaply. We just came across the first sign that our hopes may be dashed. In today’s TTG Live, Gary Noakes quotes an easyJet spokeswoman at length. She reveals—no surprise here—that GB Airways’ Gatwick slots, not the GB route map, motivated the acquisition. (With the acquisition, easyJet will operate a whopping 24 percent of flights out of Gatwick.) The medium-haul routes to Cyprus and Egypt are “…not the focus of the strategy; the strategy is growth at Gatwick.” We’ll have to wait a few months to see what this will mean for the orange-and-white. We’ll be sorely disappointed if the acquisition yields no new routes at all.
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Wed. Duo: Georgia in the FT; Azerbaijan at Eurovision
2007-10-31 16:47:00
We admit that we have a soft spot for Georgia , one of three ex-Soviet countries occupying Europe’s southeastern corner. We were thus quite happy to see the FT’s Special Report on Georgia in today’s paper, Quentin Peel’s article on tourism in Georgia in particular. Slowly, Georgia is readying itself to welcome greater tourist numbers, though, as Peel points out, hotel room availability in Tbilisi lags far behind airport and road infrastructure improvements. Still on the Caucasian regional tip, we were downright chuffed to learn earlier this month that Azerbaijan will be participating in next year’s Eurovision Song Contest for the first time. Azerbaijan joins its fellow Caucasian nations Armenia (entry year: 2006) and Georgia (entry year: 2007) at the kitsch fest.

Friday List: easyAcquisition; Madrid; Ryanair Expansion
2007-10-26 17:17:00
Autumn is here! 1. EastJet announced yesterday that is has acquired GB Airlines. A giddy glance at the GB route map turns up several destinations not currently served by easyJet, including Tangier and Fez in Morocco, Malta, Hurghada and Sharm el Sheik in Egypt, Tunis, Paphos, and Ajaccio and Bastia in Corsica. We’re hoping that easyJet won’t abandon these routes. 2. Jaunted reminds us that Madrid ’s Festival de Otoño is in hyperactive mode through the middle of November. 3. Ryanair announced a modest route expansion today, with a new Shannon-Alicante route as well as new routes between Dublin and Palma, Santander, and Zadar. All routes will be inaugurated in March.
More About: List , Friday , Expansion

Volareweb Mixes It Up
2007-10-24 23:07:00
The last time we checked, Italian low-cost carrier Volareweb flew to seven destinations in Italy, plus Paris. So imagine our surprise when we took a glance at the Volareweb site the other day to discover the following new destinations: Alghero, Cagliari, Helsinki, Lodz, Maastricht Aachen, Manchester, Pescara, Porto, Rotterdam, and Wroclaw. Three new Italian destinations? Two in the Netherlands? Two in Poland? And, um, Helsinki? Very interesting. All the airline’s new destinations are being served from Milan Malpensa. Volareweb is currently hawking €21.99 fares (including taxes and charges) on routes in and out of Milan. In the past, we’ve had a difficult time locating Volareweb’s lowest promotional fares, so imagine our pleasure when we found a €41.86 (yes, that’s under their listed lowest fare) for a Milan Malpensa-Maastricht Aachen roundtrip at the end of November. Volareweb, we’re paying attention.
More About: Mixes , Mixe

Tuesday List: TUIfly, Slovenia, La Vie Verte, Museums
2007-10-24 00:49:00
Tuesday evening. The skies are gray. And we’re a million miles away, thinking about some of the following things… 1. Like another low-cost carrier sale. TUIfly is selling off winter one-way fares for €11 apiece, taxes and surcharges included. On sale through midnight on Sunday, October 28, these fares are good for travel from November through February. 2. Like Slovenia . Thanks to the Guardian’s Mat Smith, who teases us with tales of night tobogganing in Slovenia. 3. Like green lifestyles, courtesy of our friend Denise Young’s La Vie Vert e blog, which appears to be churning out green posts by the truckload. 4. Like free museums. In January, the French government will offer free admission to 14 museums and monuments for a six-month trial period. The cultural sites with waived admission include the fab Cluny Museum in Paris.
More About: List , Museums , Tuesday

hidden europe: Smoothing over History
2007-10-23 00:09:00
hidden europe has been on the road this past fortnight, meandering through Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is not a country that gets a lot of attention in the travel media. Sarajevo café life, the bridge at Mostar and the Roman Catholic shrine at Medugorje are the three Bosnian “sights” that travel writers love to cover. But what about the rest of the country? It is of course a region that endured a terrible war in the 1990s. The Dayton Accord may have been a fine way of ending that war, but it wasn’t necessarily the best possible way of creating an enduring peace. But against the odds, Bosnia and Herzegovina is emerging as a credible multi-national state. Its two entities, the Muslim-Croat Federation and the Republika Srpska, have been cajoled into a precarious co-existence, while the town of Brcko (an enclave that is part of neither entity) is maturing from a wayward market town, where everything from guns to women were traded, into an entrepreneurial pocket of Bosn...
More About: Europe , History , Hidden , Rope

SkyEurope’s Summer 2008 Timetable
2007-10-20 00:55:00
Who’s thinking about next summer? Not us. If anything, we’re hoping for cooler weather—and as quickly as possible. We want our autumn and we want it now. That said, the impulse to plan is a wise one. Slovak budget airline SkyEurope released part of their summer 2008 timetable earlier today. Released routes include five in and out of Bratislava, nine in and out of Prague,13 in and out of Vienna, and a handful of routes to Slovakia’s hinterlands, Poprad/Tatry and Košice. Advance planners, take note! Several low-cost carriers have released or will soon be releasing 2008 timetables. This is a great time to keep a look-out for route availability over the following seasons.
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Spain: Autumn Art Round-Up
2007-10-19 00:58:00
We don’t know about that “stays mainly in the plains” bit, but we’ll say with certainty that when it rains (in Spain ) it pours—at least when it comes to artistic ventures. As bullfighting season draws to a close, the art scene is just revving up. Here are three main events to watch: 1. Thinking takes to the streets: For the first time ever August Rodin’s “The Thinker” has left its home in the Rodin Museum in Paris for an exhibition in the streets. The streets of Málaga and Granada, that is. On October 17, “The Thinker,” along with the six sculptures of the “Burghers of Calais” were unveiled Málaga’s old town. They’ll visit (under the watchful eyes of a 24 hour guard) until December 19; following their tenure in Málaga, they’ll grace the streets of Granada through January 27. 2. Cinema Paradiso: Film critics, mark your calendars! The Seville Film Festival opens on November 2 with The Lark Farm, ...
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Rome: “Film Fest” takes center screen this week
2007-10-17 01:39:00
When in Rome , do as the locals do and attend the city’s annual film festival, which kicks off this Thursday, October 18th. The opening night will be celebrated with a screening of Second Wind, a wild French film about bank robbers. We’re there. You can snag screening passes for the 10-day event online or in person, with most tickets going for between €3 and €10. Dozens of screenings happen daily—with 11 premieres lined up—and are presented around town in fabulous venues. We took special note of both the temporary space erected by IKEA and the Byzantine-style Parco della Musica, which can seat one gazillion spectators. This year’s film fest also celebrates Indian and German culture through series of special programs, screenings, and break-out discussions. Check out the festival’s official website for more information. We always wanted to see Brad Pitt in lederhosen. We’d take him in a sari too.
More About: Screen , Week , Center , Cree

Paris: The latest on Velib’, the rental bike phenomenon
2007-10-15 22:27:00
We were pleased to see that Eric Rayman at the New York Times recently arrived in Paris and immediately hopped on a Vélib’ bike rental. In yesterday’s travel section, Rayman describes the joys of pedaling down the Boulevard St-Germain (and the terrors of biking through Place de la Concorde). We’ve been big Vélib’ fans since it was launched this spring by popular socialist mayor Bertrand Delanoë, and have even eyed it with envy (especially one Cheapo in this office, who bikes his way through lower Manhattan every morning, along streets that are decidedly unfriendly to cyclists). The program has put 15,000 bikes on the streets of Paris, available for short-term rental for almost nothing from more than 1,000 hop-on and drop-off stations. BudgetTravel.com pointed out in a post this summer that many Americans were unable to rent bikes from the Vélib’ program, as the kiosks were only programmed to accept credit cards with “smart chips,” whic...
More About: Rental , Bike , Phenomenon

London: Crack, Pop and the Cutting Edge
2007-10-11 23:46:00
Ok, so a recent installation at the Tate Modern in London kinda cracked us up. The exhibit, by Colombian artist Doris Salcedo, is called Shibboleth and is a 167-meter long crack in the floor. Museum goers are invited to interact with the exhibit. A story in the AFP says, “some visitors have been so distracted by the impressive surroundings that they have unwittingly fallen into the crack, around one foot (or 30 centimetres) wide in places.” The crack gets filled next April. For more on the artist, check out the Tate’s site. Across town at the National Portrait Gallery, a huge pop art exhibit opened today. The usual suspects—Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and David Hockney—are among the 52 artists represented. The exhibition runs through January 20th, 2008. More info at the Gallery’s Web site. Price: £10. And, if you’re in London—whatever you do—please, for the love of art, go to the annual Frieze Art Fest. It’s on until October 14th and, though it will set you b...
More About: Cutting Edge , Crack , Edge , The Cut